Fireman049 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Can anyone show me how the scuttle vent flap mechanism is connected? Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Can anyone show me how the scuttle vent flap mechanism is connected? Tom. Tom, Plenty info in this thread plus photos etc http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/22524-scuttle-vent-lid-removal/ Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Graham Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) Tom ... these may help. Diagrams were sent to me by someone else when I tackled this job. Photos are from my 56. Cheers, Mike Edited April 15, 2014 by Mike Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Graham Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Guy beat me to it and has link has much more information ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Thanks Guy and Mike ~ Just what I wanted ~ I can now start putting my car back together! Cheers ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Hi Folks ~ I know how to attach the spring to the vent flap but how does the other end fit??? Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Hi Tom, The spring is clamped under the front bracket that holds the mechanism. If I remember correctly there is an up turn at the back on opposite side to the pivot point the wire sit sandwiched between the scuttle and the bracket with the wire forward of the two bolty screw thingys.. I'll try to take a piccy for you tomorrow and email it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Thank you Rod ~ It such a long time since I stripped the car down that I've forgotten how some things go back!! Cheers ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) Just doing this job with my brother on his 3A. Have ordered cap screws to hold the hinge down so there is a bit of movement 'fore and aft' to allow the back edge of the lid clearance on the scuttle recess. On my car I attacked the screw heads with the lathe to get some 'slop' . (the full sized screw heads touch the hinge return edge thus stopping the adjustment of the flap in a forward direction. NB - The 4 original mounting holes are threaded 10-32 UNF not 2BA or some curious metric form. screws link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-32-UNF-A2-STAINLESS-SOCKET-CAPS-IMPERIAL-HEXAGON-HEX-ALLEN-BOLTS-SCREWS-/190953078013?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 Cheers Peter W Edited April 15, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Thank you Peter ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Graham Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 (edited) Here is one more someone sent me that might help. I used some stainless machine screws too. Cheers, Mike Edited April 15, 2014 by Mike Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Great shot Mike ~ Thank you. Regards ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 (edited) Before you paint it all fit and adjust the rod + nicely painted mechanism, then disconnect the mechanism from the lid, leaving it in place with the spring - I used a 1/4 clevis pin with a R clip from TR6 brake pad retaining pins, for ease of fitment. When you come to fit the nicely painted lid..... Slide a sheet of thick plastic ( like a transparency sheet) down between the lid back edge and the scuttle depression. That way you can stand the lid up to get the screws for the hinge started then lower the lid to adjust/position/tighten without chipping or scratching the paint. - ask me how I know..... Final task then is to connect the spring and link of the mechanism to the lid using your 1/4 clevis and R clip. Cheers Peter W PS do not glue the seal in place until you are HAPPY with the lid closing height. Lots of dry runs to be super sure before you get it painted. Carefully open the bonnet once the lid is in place with the seal and spring fitted - best to have an assistant watch as you open the bonnet carefully for the first time. If it touches you can: 1. bend the lid 2. bend the bonnet 3. put a split piece of 1/4 bore rubber hose on the bonnet edge shut flange to lift the bonnet slightly (one either side also stops the bonnet hinge rattle) Edited April 16, 2014 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Thank you for that very useful information Blue TR3A. I shall certainly follow your instructions. Cheers ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Tom If you have a repro seal it will never fit without a lot of work sorry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Neil is spot on, the repro seals have to be reworked or the front of the vent sits too high. First time you lift the bonnet, crunch. Not so bad on later post 60K cars were the bonnet rear edge lifts at a better angle. Packing the back of the vent up with a couple of flat washers helps get the front edge down. Viv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted April 17, 2014 Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 Tom +1 for Neil and Viv. Guess how I know...! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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