Jim Allen Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Silly question but I'm looking for help from all the wise heads on this forum. I've always imagined that I'd have to put the engine-gearbox back in after the restored body shell had been mated back to the chassis but I keep seeing pictures of engine-gearboxes sitting on restored chassis. Is it possible/wise to mount the engine onto the chassis and then place the restored/painted body over the top of the engine. If it's possible then I could be doing the engine work while the body tub is away getting done. Thank you Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Yes, very much so. You can fit the engine, gearbox, propshaft, axle, complete exhaust system, fuel lines, brake pipes, handbrake cables, & lever. Radiator, hoses, electric fan (if you are fitting one) Don't fit the steering box (unless you have a split column) , or the carb's, they can get in the way. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Two photos ,before and after I hope this works my first try with new iMac computer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigmalcy Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 Not sure about fitting the handbrake lever before the body goes on - this could make dropping the body on a bit tricky... although not impossible. Not difficult to fit afterwards, anyway, so I'd leave it off. Another point: while this post is about when to fit the engine and box... clearly removing the engine and box becomes more difficult once the body is on... so it pays to be sure that there aren't any 'engine-out' jobs that need doing before the body is fitted over the engine. In my case, I had the engine and box on the chassis prior to the body going on, fitted the body, got her on the road and only then discovered that the re-built engine was dripping oil, either from the crankshaft seal conversion or from the camshaft gallery plug (I think). If I had to do the job again, I would start the engine before fitting the body for just long enough to run in the cams, get it up to temp and check for leaks... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) Oh yes, it fits: BEFORE: AFTER: [/url] Edited April 14, 2014 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted April 14, 2014 Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 If I had to do the job again, I would start the engine before fitting the body for just long enough to run in the cams, get it up to temp and check for leaks... I'm sure I've seen a video on this forum or Youtube of someone driving his bodyless TR around the block. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Allen Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Thanks to you all. Great encouragement to keep going when I see all those fantastic photos. I should try posting a few of where I'm up to. Cheers Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I would say that it is easier to lower the body over the handbrake than it would be to fit it with body on. Mine went on with no problems. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Re. the handbrake: I had to dig deep in my memory. In fact, I had to ask a guy who was with me at the time the tub and chassis 'married' (that's the expression, I think). We had the mechanism installed complete with the lever when we rebuilt the chassis + components. When we installed the tub, we removed the lever because we didn't want unwanted hassle lining up the hole in the floor and the h/brake lever. (totally off topic: Jim, I'm very intested in all things sailing - always happy to read a PM about that subject!) Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I would say that it is easier to lower the body over the handbrake than it would be to fit it with body on. Mine went on with no problems. Bob. +1 I was considering removing the hand brake lever as there were only 2 of us to lift the body but we thought we would try it with the lever in place, the tub slipped over the handbrake effortlessly! One less thing to bolt back on Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 I would just add to the handbrake controversy - remove the plastic grip, as it could get damaged when you offer it through the floor panel. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 (edited) +1 I was considering removing the hand brake lever as there were only 2 of us to lift the body but we thought we would try it with the lever in place, the tub slipped over the handbrake effortlessly! One less thing to bolt back on Cheers Alan I was able to use a full size ramp (see my pics), so it wasn't difficult to re-install the lever after positioning the tub. With the knowledge I now have, I would have opted for the ramp again, but with the use of these so called garage dollies: the ramp only goes up and down; a inch forward or sideways isn't possible. Using these garage dollies together with the ramp gives you the possibility to reposition the chassis slightly when you need to. Menno Edited April 16, 2014 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 You can see i wrapped the hand brake lever with masking tape to protect it before fitting the tub. I also used long studs in the outrigger mounts as guides so it all came together without any problems. I did think of taking the leaver off but with the exhaust fitted it would be very difficult to refit the lock nut for the pivot bolt so i left it on. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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