Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi all, wondered if any of you had any ideas on a leak my 2 has its coming from the overdrive where the setting lever shaft (the one where drill bit is used for setting) goes into the unit itself, cars been in storage best part of 10 yrs so im pressuming its a small oil seal/ring degenerated, does the seal fit from external or internal ? thanks for any help.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a delayed (about 1 second) engagement on my TR2 overdrive, but I had always assumed it was because I had not adjusted it properly to account for wear in the actuating pieces. Is a too tight O-ring the more likely cause?

 

Dan

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dan, check manually if the shaft seems to binding - a delay can be other things. If the problem looks to there, check O ring size, although you'll need an exemplar. Sometimes a service shop has fitted two O rings to try and stem a leak and that's the cause of delay. Sometimes a non automotive O ring is fitted which eventually swells up and binds the shaft. It could even be a slow solenoid on the other side as crud can get in over time.

 

Hope you've got access to a hoist or pit as access is awkward.

 

Rgds,

 

Viv

Link to post
Share on other sites

When Bill Piggott went to California, the TRSC (Triumph Register of Southern California), loaned him the use of a TR2 with overdrive. The delay on the actuation was up to two minutes. Later they found that it was the O-ring seal at one end of the cross-shaft or the other end which was putting a drag on its rotation and this caused the delay.

 

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A

Link to post
Share on other sites

If the operating valve is correctly adjusted and this is a tricky fine adjustment, then there wont be a delay.

The accumulator is charged with high pressure oil and this should operate the OD almost at once.

 

But if the valve is only just opening then the oil flow is impeded.

Most likely the O ring holds the valve back a tiny bit and makes it seem that this is the real problem.

 

The traditional method with the drill in the hole seems to set the valve so it does not quite open.

This is probably because of wear on the shaft or its supports.

 

Its better to set the valve with a depth micrometer or dial-indicator.

 

From memory valve lift is 15 thou or similar. This isn't much!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.