Rodbr Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Two questions. 1. The seat frames are in remarkable condition but there are cracks around virtually all the runner holes. yeh well not quite!!!!!!!!!!!!! Each pair of holes sit in a depression but the cracks are between the parent metal and the seat side indicating a bounce fatigue where the cushion frames bear and not emenating at the holes. It appears as if the PO decided to drill to 1/2" holes right through seat frame and floor pans through bolted as his method of securing the seat!!!!!!!!!!!! What suggestions are there to beef the frame up a bit? 2 What size are the bifurcated rivets used the hold the plywood tack strips in place? thanks Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 (edited) I went through this process last year, I eventualy decided to fit the covers without using the plywood which I had found very hard to bend to the right shape without it snapping (yes I tried water, steam etc). I used good old evostick from a tub to stick the vinyl direct to the metal both inside, & outside. Getting the wrinkles out was the main problem. Regarding "beefing up" the seat pan, how about welding some large washers to the base over the existing holes. "mudguard" washers are ideal - available in large diameters but with small holes. I must admit I got the body shop who were doing my body work to repair my seats, they just welded all the cracks up - we will have to see how long that lasts. I did have some bifurcated rivets which I was going to use, the size was around 3mm dia by 12 long. Bob. Edited April 1, 2014 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Any time you make a welded repair, especially to a thin section you can expect that it will crack again. This is because the welding process leaves stress in the metal and regions where hard and soft metals meet. So on a job like this I always add reinforcing over the welded repair. Washers, plates, L-sections just depends on the shape of the job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Re: bifurcated rivets I have in my hand an original Triumph one taken from my seats last year, & a brand new one probably from the TR shop. They are pretty much identical in measurements: Length 17mm Head dia 8mm shaft dia 3.9mm length of slot 11.8mm width of slot approx 1mm at base, & 1.9mm at tip Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
billg Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 For the plywood strip I put saw cuts on one side and pop riveted the ply to the frame. No one will ever know! For strength I had big washers welded to both sides of the seat base and added an alloy extrusion to strengthen the seat runners. I also scrapped the horsehair bed spring wire mesh seat bases and opted for custom cut foam bases. I get compliments for how smooth the ride is on my car and felt pretty good after dome 400 mile trips /day in it back and forth to Malvern. Bill G@ NB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 For the plywood strips I bought a sheet of 3mm ply and using the seat back as a former clamped two thickness with glue between them and left them to dry overnight. Oh, and I soaked the plywood prior to bending it. I ended up with two semi circular pieces of 6 mm ply. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.