RogerH Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Blimey, I didn't think this would turn into an epic. Stretch bolts, torque values, threadlock, wirelock. The Moss cat says to use stretch bolts only once, but surely they return to their original size otherwise they have hit the limit of their elastic range and are shagged anyway. If you use Threadlock then the extra lubrication seriously affects the torque value - or does it!!!! As the engine is not mine I have bought the correct stretchy bolts for peace of mind. If it was my engine I would have reused the original bolts. If at some time - tomorrow or in five years time - I remove the caps to check the shells do I have to fit 'new' bolts again. Well the logical answer is yes. But I bet people don;t. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) If you use Locktite you are not "flooding" the thread anyway, a dab is all that's required to make the fastening into a "sticky" bolt hence the torque application isn't compromised. If you buy ARP bolts their torques are stated with lubrication on the threads so if not a stretchy fastener you could put rather more Locktite onto the bolt threads and obtain correct Torque figures. As regards further removal after Locktite has been applied, they undo easily but require winding by mechanical means throughout their removal until the Locktited area clears the threads. To refit previously Locktited bolts I immerse in a cup full of thinners which attacks the Locktite and then remove the white residue via wire brush and pointed scriber down the threads. Time consuming but allows minute inspection of the threads and fastening as you do it. Then dry thoroughly and away you go with another dab of Locktite on the threads for further reuse. Mick Richards Edited March 3, 2014 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Had some fun today. I noticed that the liner protrusion didn;t appear to be that much. Sure enough it was on the skimpy. Moss do a standard size of Fo8 seal apprx 0.016" but also a thicker one at 0.018". So out with the liners (pistons still inside) and in with the thicker Fo8. A mazingly the 0.002" extra thickness didn;t give a 0.002" increase. Still the protrusion is now OK The cam wheel and crank pulley went on with little issue. Tomorrow I shall attack the dizzy, fuel pump and possibly the head. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 (edited) Roger, When I checked my liner heights I replaced the head, using the cleaned up old gasket, torqued it, then took it off. All in order to seat the liners onto the Fo8s in their sealant. That was advice from someone on the forum. Might be a good time to double check the cam timing. I did and found it was timed to number 1 exhaust valve, not the inlet - DOH! Easy fix when you're in there. Edited March 3, 2014 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Hi Pete, I like the idea of using the head to flatten the liners down. I'll try that tomorrow. I hope it doesn;t move too much I would hate to have to take it all apart again. Having said that I found a pair of 0.020" copper Fo8's this afternoon that could be pressed into use. I'm fairly happy with the timing as the cam, cam wheel and crank pulley are all marked and it all fell together with no battle. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Roger if you dont end up using the copper FO8`s can I purchase them off you? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 So, today I have managed to nail most things together. However this may not be a good thing. When I received the engine the head had already been removed and the block fitted in the back of the Audi quite nicely - not sure if it will fit with the head on (bugger) My only concern is the alignment of the dizzy. Everything fits according to the WM but the rotor arm is not quite pointing were I think it should - just by a fraction I think I'll let them fit the enigne into the car and address this problem (if it is a problem) insitu. Stuart - I'll send the Fo8's down to you. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Thanks Roger. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 The enigne is finished. That was hard work for two reasons - 1, somebody disassembled part of it - head, pistons etc and put them all in a box to play with. 2, an enigne rotiserrie would have made life really handy. Using the Hyd Hoist to lift and turn and fiddle about was time wasting and hard work. Still it is now in one piece, it feels nice to turn over, and every thing is there (I do have rather a lot of bits left over as usual). sadly it will be six to eight weeks before it will burst into flames life. Should be interesting to be there. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 I'm sure you'll keep us well informed,Good Luck with the Start Up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Thanks Niall - and don;t you dare leave. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Im around for a while yet But?????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Hi Folks, I came back to this thread as I plan to rebuild my 4A engine in a couple of weeks time. Having read through this thread I realise I hadn't fed back what happened when they tried to start it. Well, they (the garage) fitted it into the car, gave it some fuel and pressed the starter - it started. The timing was nigh on spot on, good oil pressure, no bangs or rattles, everything worked as it should do. However shortly after getting it on the road a serious oil leak developed. The plugs at the ends of the oil gallery were made of steel and had hack saw cuts across the flat heads for a screwdriver. The correct plugs are Ali, supplied on a sausage link of plugs and is graunched in with moles. No way were the steels ones going to seal. Should be interesting what I find my engine when I get it out. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Hi Roger, do you need to borrow an engine rotisserie ? One here if you need it . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Machine mart do a good engine building stand about 60 GBP when I checked It works and it can be taken apart when not in use Does it for me I have a disinclination to lend my kit So I try to have my own This could be a whole new string? Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi Alec & Michael, the engine stand makes great sense. Never used on before but have access locally. many thanks Alec for the offer. As you say Michael, this could start a new thread - 'first aid' Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi Michael, " I have a disinclination to lend my kit. So I try to have my own " Yes I share the feeling, but on the other hand there are many of us who have to run a TR on the proverbial shoestring. The idea of going out and spending fifty or a hundred quid on a tool that gets used maybe once a decade isn't an available option. End of. I'm fortunate enough to have a reasonable amount of kit accumulated over the years, more than many folks, along with a decent crane, hoist and pit. Hence the occasional interloping cars (and owners) that appear here to make use of under-utilised facilities. Similarly I don't mind lending items short-term to other TR chaps - who can usually be relied upon to return promptly. OK, there's been the odd disappointment over the years, but not enough to put me off trying to do unto others . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Cher Alec, I agree completely - the only thing is that all the TR owners I meet these days generally are not running a TR as their only car, they are middle aged and have as you do a collection or spares and bits of car that they have upgraded over the years and the opportunity to buy a new tool flashes like a light bulb in their Hobby /leisure brain Basically not many are running a TR on a shoestring Michael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Ashworth Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi Roger,I've just re-read this thread from the beginning, very useful, interesting and informative with lots of good input from others, especially Mick Richards and Michael H. I'm very pleased that you started it. I'm looking forward to this next engine rebuild seminar and learning more to limit the amount of mistakes that I don't wish to make. What kind of food to you feed to a mandril by the way? And where do you find an ARP Warden these days to get the necessary bolts? Good luck and all the best. Dave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hi Michael, fair comment, as ever . . . . . . but in this neck of the woods not all TR men are well-heeled, nor yet middle-aged. The South West is still a relatively deprived area, and not short of young and old enthusiasts alike who have to make do and mend. Sadly, I can think of several who have ventured to a TR meeting never to return, simply because they felt out of place amongst those with shinier cars and deeper pockets. Even worse, I can think of several former members who have left our ranks for similar reasons, and because the club subs didn't represent value for money in their personal terms. There's still a lot to be said for the old attitudes of Local Groups enabling TR working parties and special tool sharing, for example. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 My entry into classic cars was as the proud owner of a 1930's Austin 10 and I found that the Austin 10 club although small managed to maintain a spares section also a small tool hire section for the tools which were only needed occasionally Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Ashworth Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 I've got a whacking great engine crane that can be borrowed most of the time if anyone cares to come and pick it up and drop it off again afterwards.. .and it's new and shiny. Located in Whitchurch, Shropshire... however, I'm located in Lanzarote until the gales and snow are over, or beginning of February, whichever comes first. Anyway, enough of this thread hijacking as it is a very good source of engine rebuild information. Dave. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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