AlanG Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Just about to remove the dash for a re-lacquer and to remove and fix the heater. Does the steering column have to be removed? Any tips on the dash removal would be appreciated. Cheers Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Alan First tip, disconnect battery before putting your hands behind the dash You wont need to remove column but , might find it easier to get the speedo and tacho out if you remove the cowls from the column. I find it easier to remove tacho and speedo first, remove two clips at the rear of each gauge keeps it tight to back of dash. Undo all connections best label the wires. The four centre gauges will come forward with the dash to enable you to undo the rear clips. Label all wires When you remove the oil feed line to gauge watch out for the cork seal, dont loose it very small. Think that cover its If i have missed anything someone will be along shortly Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 Hi Alan. There's a load of pictures on my site when I stripped my dash out. It'll be a good reference when you put it back together etc. http://tr4a.weebly.com/stripdown-reference-pictures.html Best wishes Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted November 20, 2013 Report Share Posted November 20, 2013 After you disconnect the oil gauge remember not to start the engine again until the gauge is back or the pipe blanked off.....i learned this after I spotted the oil slick... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Alan "Now" is the time to buy a replacement cork seal for the oil pressure gauge.Unless of course it's in very good nick and still supple, rather than crumbly. Tape the plastic bag , with the new seal in, to the end of the pipe... so that it's to hand on re-assembly. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Are trying to get the metal dash out as well as the wooden part? Mine is quite a tight fit and you may have a struggle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Thanks folks. Taking the metal dash depends on whether I can get the heater out without. Right sleeves rolled down (to cold for up). Garage heater on. Here we go. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grahamgl Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 (edited) Hi Alan, The heater unit can be removed without removing the metal dash. Before attempting to undo the bolts that hold the heater, three of them, apply liberal amounts of WD40. This can be done via the scuttle vent. There was an article in Triumph World which showed how to remove a heater unit from a TR5, the person doing it did not remove the wooden dash or any of the guages. I removed mine when the wooden dash and guages had been removed for restoration, seemed plenty of room to work. If your heater hasn't been removed before be prepared for rusted in bolts. In the end I had to cut one of the bolts on my car and drill and tap the bolt stub out. The seal on the oil pressure guage feed was leather on my car. Graham Edited November 21, 2013 by Grahamgl Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted November 21, 2013 Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 The two little rubber hoses will put up a fight. They even do this when re-fitting. Make a note of how they fit its not obvious. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted November 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2013 Dash removed and all old lacquer removed. Heater bolts slackened off. I'll drain the system and remove the heater tomorrow. Backs of the instruments are suffering from surface rust. Any thoughts on the best treatment to use on them? Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Dash removed and all old lacquer removed. Heater bolts slackened off. I'll drain the system and remove the heater tomorrow. Backs of the instruments are suffering from surface rust. Any thoughts on the best treatment to use on them? Alan. Clean them up, mask off the connections and the holes for the bulbs and spray with wheel silver. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 I'll do that. Thanks. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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