foster461 Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 I'm in the final stages of getting the engine ready to run. I'm unclear of the routing for the fuel line from the pump to the front carb and also the vacuum line from the front carb to the dizzy. Do these run under the thermostat housing and is there supposed to be a bracket to secure them at the front (I dont have one) ?. A picture or two would be great. 1960 TR3A Thanks, Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 Hi Stan ~ Yes, the fuel and vacuum pipes run under the thermostat housing and there is a bracket and a rubber grommet to secure them. Have a look at the Moss catalogue page 37. The bracket and grommet are listed under the TR4-4A part numbers:~ 133072 CLIP, pipe to thermostat housing 133083 INSULATOR, rubber, pipe to clip. These are the parts I fitted to my 3A. Hope this helps. Best regards ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 aha !, thanks Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 9, 2013 Report Share Posted June 9, 2013 Stan you have mail. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 ok, I have the bracket and grommet on order and I have the old fuel line in place as a temporary fuel line for the initial start up. Very apprehensive at this stage.. will it go bang, will it leak like a sieve..did I get the cam timing correct.. did I torque everything correctly.. did I install that viton rear seal correctly.. Just need a dry day so I can push the frame into the driveway and begin the startup procedure.. Current plan is to remove the plugs, spin the engine and verify that we have oil pressure. Then put the plugs in, give the ignition some power, connect the fuel pump to a temporary gas supply and try and start it. No choke or throttle cables so will manually operate the choke and use the idle screws to set idle for the cam break in. I have a big fan to stick in front of the rad to help with cooling. Oil and Temp gauges are connected, will use the timing light to show RPM. Engine and tranny are filled with oil, no prop shaft installed yet. Overdrive not connected, not adjusted. I have two fire extinguishers handy. What am I missing ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Carb dashpots got oil in? Fuel pipe normally goes through behind the bypass hose and finally bottle of bubbly for when the break in is finished! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Carb dashpots got oil in? Fuel pipe normally goes through behind the bypass hose and finally bottle of bubbly for when the break in is finished! Stuart. Carbs have genuine SU dashpot oil in them and that fuel line is going into the bin once I'm successful running the engine (it is rusted and bent) but thanks for the info about the correct routing. Engine is timed at approx 10 degrees btdc, I'll verify that with the timing light. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 (edited) Stan - Here is my engine TS 27489 LO - a very early TR3A - showing the pipes you ask about. The clip holding the fuel line is correct for my early TR3A. Edited June 12, 2013 by Don Elliott Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Stan - Here is my engine TS 27489 LO - a very early TR3A - showing the pipes you ask about. The clip holding the fuel line is correct for my early TR3A. Like the special spanner Don, I have a few like that as well Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 With the front apron (valance) installed, it's the only way to get that nut tight. 55 years of ownership will get you like that ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Think I've got half a drawer full of specials made up over the years !. I've made a larger diameter clip than Don's original to take a piece of rubber fuel line as an insulator. It lowers heat soak into the fuel pipe suspected of contributing to vapour locks. Later 3A's had a circular clip at that point with a round rubber grommet. The fuel pipe passed through the centre of the grommet, but not the vacuum line. Best clip was the 4/4A version as described by Tom, because it was insulated and accepted both the fuel line and vacuum pipe. Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Think I've got half a drawer full of specials made up over the years !. I've made a larger diameter clip than Don's original to take a piece of rubber fuel line as an insulator. It lowers heat soak into the fuel pipe suspected of contributing to vapour locks. Later 3A's had a circular clip at that point with a round rubber grommet. The fuel pipe passed through the centre of the grommet, but not the vacuum line. Best clip was the 4/4A version as described by Tom, because it was insulated and accepted both the fuel line and vacuum pipe. Viv. I have seen that later clip on TR3A's, the carb'd TR6 has a similar arrangement for its fuel line too. I like the earlier clip better, I think it looks neater. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 (edited) Yes, the fuel and vacuum pipes run under the thermostat housing and there is a bracket and a rubber grommet to secure them. Have a look at the Moss catalogue page 37. The bracket and grommet are listed under the TR4-4A part numbers:~ 133072 CLIP, pipe to thermostat housing 133083 INSULATOR, rubber, pipe to clip. These are the parts I fitted to my 3A. Hope this helps. Best regards ~ Tom. Hi I looked at my car and cannot see how/where to fix the clip. Can you help? I attach a pic with a red arrow to show where I think the clip goes, but there is no place to indert the screw that fixes it. I am also including a pic of the mess in the engine vay, I want to reroute new petrol pipe and vaccum pipe. I believe they go together using the rubber insulator. Camilo Edited November 3, 2017 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 (edited) Hi Camilo, route the pipes under the thermostat housing and hang the clip from one of the thermo attachment screws. Roger Edited November 3, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ijonsson Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 ok, I have the bracket and grommet on order and I have the old fuel line in place as a temporary fuel line for the initial start up. Very apprehensive at this stage.. will it go bang, will it leak like a sieve..did I get the cam timing correct.. did I torque everything correctly.. did I install that viton rear seal correctly.. Just need a dry day so I can push the frame into the driveway and begin the startup procedure.. Current plan is to remove the plugs, spin the engine and verify that we have oil pressure. Then put the plugs in, give the ignition some power, connect the fuel pump to a temporary gas supply and try and start it. No choke or throttle cables so will manually operate the choke and use the idle screws to set idle for the cam break in. I have a big fan to stick in front of the rad to help with cooling. Oil and Temp gauges are connected, will use the timing light to show RPM. Engine and tranny are filled with oil, no prop shaft installed yet. Overdrive not connected, not adjusted. I have two fire extinguishers handy. What am I missing ? Maybe a fuel filter after the rusty fuel pipe, you don't want rust flakes in your jets. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 Thank you Roger Does the vacuum pipe run from the carbs parallel to them. or across diagonally as they are now. Of course, they will have to under the thrmo housing along with the fuel pipe. Camilo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 Maybe a fuel filter after the rusty fuel pipe, you don't want rust flakes in your jets. Hi The pipe is new but there will be am additional filter. I cannot see where your vacuum pipe is running out of the carbs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 (edited) Hi Camilo This is mine that the previous owner put together many years ago and I believe he did a good job. Looks like the clip is in the same place as Rogers. And shows the routing ? (Not saying its factory correct. Just the way mine is) Edit My fuel filter is before the pump as I want to protect that from bits as well. Edited November 3, 2017 by Hamish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 Hi Camilo, keep the vacuum pipe under the fuel pipe as much as possible. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 Camilo - with the standard H6 carbs the vacuum take-off is from the front one so the run is shorter. Since you have HS6 carbs with the take off on the rear one, the pipe run will be up to you to arrange as there is no 'right' way. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 (edited) Hi Rob I just realized that the right pipe for the HS6s is the Moss vacuum pipe #307724, which does not have the bulb like my current one. I asked them if they come in longer lengths, and I wonder if I can just buy a pipe like this from a local hardware supplier. Thanks Edited November 3, 2017 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 Hi Rob, I have a TR4 with H6 carbs and the pipe comes from under the front carb. I also have a TR4A and the pipe comes from on top of the front carb. The rear carb lives a lonely life being ignored by all. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 Hi Camilo, keep the vacuum pipe under the fuel pipe as much as possible. Roger P1000570.JPG Hi Roger Why is that? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 I think it looks more orderly - no other reason. If I could do without any pipes/hosed/cables then I would do that. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted November 3, 2017 Report Share Posted November 3, 2017 In #21 I asked if I wonder if I can just buy a pipe like this from a local hardware supplier. if there is nothing special about this tube, other than the interior diameter maybe I could buy it locally with the length that I need. Anyone knows the specifications? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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