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Routing for vacuum advance and fuel lines around the engine


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I'm in the final stages of getting the engine ready to run. I'm unclear of the routing for the fuel line from the pump to the front carb and also the vacuum line from the front carb to the dizzy. Do these run under the thermostat housing and is there supposed to be a bracket to secure them at the front (I dont have one) ?.

 

A picture or two would be great.

 

1960 TR3A

 

Thanks,

 

Stan

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Hi Stan ~

Yes, the fuel and vacuum pipes run under the thermostat housing and there is a bracket and a rubber grommet to secure them.

Have a look at the Moss catalogue page 37. The bracket and grommet are listed under the TR4-4A part numbers:~

133072 CLIP, pipe to thermostat housing

133083 INSULATOR, rubber, pipe to clip.

These are the parts I fitted to my 3A.

Hope this helps.

Best regards ~

Tom.

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ok, I have the bracket and grommet on order and I have the old fuel line in place as a temporary fuel line for the initial start up.

 

Very apprehensive at this stage.. will it go bang, will it leak like a sieve..did I get the cam timing correct.. did I torque everything correctly.. did I install that viton rear seal correctly..

 

Just need a dry day so I can push the frame into the driveway and begin the startup procedure..

 

Current plan is to remove the plugs, spin the engine and verify that we have oil pressure. Then put the plugs in, give the ignition some power, connect the fuel pump to a temporary gas supply and try and start it. No choke or throttle cables so will manually operate the choke and use the idle screws to set idle for the cam break in. I have a big fan to stick in front of the rad to help with cooling. Oil and Temp gauges are connected, will use the timing light to show RPM. Engine and tranny are filled with oil, no prop shaft installed yet. Overdrive not connected, not adjusted.

 

I have two fire extinguishers handy.

 

What am I missing ?

 

 

Enginepre-startup_zps065f137d.jpg

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Carb dashpots got oil in? Fuel pipe normally goes through behind the bypass hose and finally bottle of bubbly for when the break in is finished! ;):lol:

Stuart.

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Carb dashpots got oil in? Fuel pipe normally goes through behind the bypass hose and finally bottle of bubbly for when the break in is finished! ;):lol:

Stuart.

 

Carbs have genuine SU dashpot oil in them and that fuel line is going into the bin once I'm successful running the engine (it is rusted and bent) but thanks for the info about the correct routing.

 

Engine is timed at approx 10 degrees btdc, I'll verify that with the timing light.

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Stan - Here is my engine TS 27489 LO - a very early TR3A - showing the pipes you ask about. The clip holding the fuel line is correct for my early TR3A.

Like the special spanner Don, I have a few like that as well ;)

Stuart.

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Think I've got half a drawer full of specials made up over the years !.

 

I've made a larger diameter clip than Don's original to take a piece of rubber fuel line as an insulator. It lowers heat soak into the fuel pipe suspected of contributing to vapour locks.

 

Later 3A's had a circular clip at that point with a round rubber grommet. The fuel pipe passed through the centre of the grommet, but not the vacuum line.

 

Best clip was the 4/4A version as described by Tom, because it was insulated and accepted both the fuel line and vacuum pipe.

 

Viv.

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Think I've got half a drawer full of specials made up over the years !.

 

I've made a larger diameter clip than Don's original to take a piece of rubber fuel line as an insulator. It lowers heat soak into the fuel pipe suspected of contributing to vapour locks.

 

Later 3A's had a circular clip at that point with a round rubber grommet. The fuel pipe passed through the centre of the grommet, but not the vacuum line.

 

Best clip was the 4/4A version as described by Tom, because it was insulated and accepted both the fuel line and vacuum pipe.

 

Viv.

 

I have seen that later clip on TR3A's, the carb'd TR6 has a similar arrangement for its fuel line too. I like the earlier clip better, I think it looks neater.

 

Stan

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  • 4 years later...

Yes, the fuel and vacuum pipes run under the thermostat housing and there is a bracket and a rubber grommet to secure them.

Have a look at the Moss catalogue page 37. The bracket and grommet are listed under the TR4-4A part numbers:~

133072 CLIP, pipe to thermostat housing

133083 INSULATOR, rubber, pipe to clip.

These are the parts I fitted to my 3A.

Hope this helps.

Best regards ~

Tom.

 

 

Hi

 

I looked at my car and cannot see how/where to fix the clip. Can you help? I attach a pic with a red arrow to show where I think the clip goes, but there is no place to indert the screw that fixes it.

 

I am also including a pic of the mess in the engine vay, I want to reroute new petrol pipe and vaccum pipe. I believe they go together using the rubber insulator.

 

Camilo

post-14128-0-76270900-1509698580_thumb.png

post-14128-0-61205400-1509698597_thumb.png

post-14128-0-85133500-1509699167_thumb.jpg

post-14128-0-17755000-1509699183_thumb.jpg

Edited by qim
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ok, I have the bracket and grommet on order and I have the old fuel line in place as a temporary fuel line for the initial start up.

 

Very apprehensive at this stage.. will it go bang, will it leak like a sieve..did I get the cam timing correct.. did I torque everything correctly.. did I install that viton rear seal correctly..

 

Just need a dry day so I can push the frame into the driveway and begin the startup procedure..

 

Current plan is to remove the plugs, spin the engine and verify that we have oil pressure. Then put the plugs in, give the ignition some power, connect the fuel pump to a temporary gas supply and try and start it. No choke or throttle cables so will manually operate the choke and use the idle screws to set idle for the cam break in. I have a big fan to stick in front of the rad to help with cooling. Oil and Temp gauges are connected, will use the timing light to show RPM. Engine and tranny are filled with oil, no prop shaft installed yet. Overdrive not connected, not adjusted.

 

I have two fire extinguishers handy.

 

What am I missing ?

 

 

Enginepre-startup_zps065f137d.jpg

Maybe a fuel filter after the rusty fuel pipe, you don't want rust flakes in your jets.

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Maybe a fuel filter after the rusty fuel pipe, you don't want rust flakes in your jets.

 

Hi

 

The pipe is new but there will be am additional filter.

 

I cannot see where your vacuum pipe is running out of the carbs.

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Hi Camilo

This is mine that the previous owner put together many years ago and I believe he did a good job.

Looks like the clip is in the same place as Rogers.

And shows the routing ?

(Not saying its factory correct. Just the way mine is)

 

Edit

My fuel filter is before the pump as I want to protect that from bits as well.

post-14544-0-72121700-1509700109_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Hamish
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Camilo - with the standard H6 carbs the vacuum take-off is from the front one so the run is shorter. Since you have HS6 carbs with the take off on the rear one, the pipe run will be up to you to arrange as there is no 'right' way.

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Hi Rob

 

I just realized that the right pipe for the HS6s is the Moss vacuum pipe #307724, which does not have the bulb like my current one. I asked them if they come in longer lengths, and I wonder if I can just buy a pipe like this from a local hardware supplier.

 

Thanks

Edited by qim
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In #21 I asked if

 

I wonder if I can just buy a pipe like this from a local hardware supplier.

 

 

if there is nothing special about this tube, other than the interior diameter maybe I could buy it locally with the length that I need.

 

Anyone knows the specifications?

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