Dismantling Windscreen

[McMuttley]

Final question before I go home and check if my PO let the top rail rubber shrink (what do you do? clamp it and leave it ?)

 

If the lower screw blocks have fallen rather than needing re-tapping, and assuming the rest of the screen is fine, is it possible to take the bottom frame and rubber off, slide the screen out, re-fix the lower blocks and re-assemble?????????

 

Yours gratefully as ever

[Rodbr]

Hi Mac,

You fit the top rubber leaving the excess out to both sides, it will naturally shrink back if left alone, DO NOT try to induce tension as that will make it worse. The repro ones are fractionally bigger than the original so you need to use Poger and smally suitably blunted screwdriver to push the seal into the groove in the frame. As you work it in progressively try to release any built up tension as you go. DO LEAVE an overage so you can carefully trim round the top of the stantions or a leaky hood will result (well more leaky than normal).

 

DO NOT THINK THAT YOU CAN ENTER IT INTO THE SLOT AND PULL along. you might get 1/3rd of the way then it will bind up.

 

Not sure what you mean about the blocks but if they have slipped then the holes should be visible. If so likely the tiny screws have disintegrated if you can not confidently drill tap and refit you could try coating with araldite and pulling into position with stantion screw and some washers till set. Just make sure that the stantion screw is very free in the threads with lots of grease and be cafeful not to knock them when fitting the glass.

[McMuttley]

I assume a 'poger' is like a me rather than another product I haven't heard of !!!

[Rodbr]

Unless you are thin with a very pointy head. You aren't a "poger"

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-Leather-Craft-Hole-Maker-Awl-Tool-Wooden-Handled-/261251409392?pt=UK_Crafts_Leathercraft_LE&hash=item3cd3cc25f0

 

Make you holes with something like this

[McMuttley]

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=poger

[Rodbr]

Hi Mutt,

it's pronounced (po-ger) Scots engineering term unlikely to be found on anythong as common as an "urban" dictionary

[Ian Vincent]

Like this, you need to keep the rubber under tension so it sits nice on the scuttle and the repro plates often need grinding down a bit and bending to suit.

Stuart.

 

When I refitted my windscreen it looked like this on one side with a gap between the seal and the scuttle. I haven't got around to fixing it yet, and anyway i am away from home for a few months but how best to fix it? Is it simply a question of removing the small retaining plate and applying a bit more tension to the rubber? And I assume the screen needs to be removed from teh vehicle to do it - correct?

 

Rgds Ian

[Ian Vincent]

Hi Mutt,

it's pronounced (po-ger) Scots engineering term unlikely to be found on anythong as common as an "urban" dictionary

And it's spelled podger as in podging spanner.

 

http://www.twwholesale.co.uk/browse.php/section/6361/level/4

 

Rgds Ian

 

(ex civil engineer)

[stuart]

 

When I refitted my windscreen it looked like this on one side with a gap between the seal and the scuttle. I haven't got around to fixing it yet, and anyway i am away from home for a few months but how best to fix it? Is it simply a question of removing the small retaining plate and applying a bit more tension to the rubber? And I assume the screen needs to be removed from teh vehicle to do it - correct?

 

Rgds Ian

You will have to remove screen to do anything about it, Re-tensioning may well do it.

A lot of the problems with the lower screen seal stems from either fitting the wrong way round or not fitting them tight enough. Its always best when you buy a new one to lay it out flat for a week or two somewhere warm to get it straight.Someone gave me an original Stanpart one years ago but it wasnt any good as it had been folded up for 40 plus years.

Stuart.

[Rodbr]

Hi Ian,

Perhaps you could supply some context here:

TR2, Tr3 or Tr3a?

Did you fit a new rubber? If so was it the correct way round? i.e facing back towards inside of the car.

Were the screen and stantions a matched set and from the car? You might have a slightly longer one on that side, not as strange as you may think.

Was the screen frame rebuilt round a new glass? Are the screen frame corners a tight fit with little or no gap.?

Are the attachments to scuttle correct and did you trial fit the frame to the scuttle first, i.e were there any gaps at the attachment points. was it wider? Worst case I HEARD OF WAS A NEWLY RE BUILT SHELL THAT WAS 3 INCHES NARROWER ACCROSS THE SCUTTLE

Sometimes this is the reason why tenon plates are thinner, not there at all, or much thicker specials. Also why sometimes you need a squidge of Dum Dum in the corners, nothing to do with the rubber or fitting of it but more to do with the shape of your particular car.

 

Removal.

As said above and on many other occasions SIMPLY just doesn't come into it. You must remove the screen from the car. I suggest that perhaps it would be wise to replace the rubber with a known quantity i.e new one (if the one you fitted looked like Stuarts picture it probably needs replacement, LMAO)

 

In all cases think of the analogy of a rubber band, cut one in two, pull the ends, and let go of one end! Stingy finger? Thats what happens to the screen rubbers when over stretched- result is doesn't stretch to the shape of the scuttle top or shrinks back leaving a gap and resultant water hole between hood and screen just about face level, (great for keeping you awake during a long drive in the rain.)

 

Health and Safety alert!

Take extreme car making the initial hole in the rubber, avoiding stabbing oneself in the finger, usng the Podger pronounced PO_GER which we saw earlier in the discussion.

If in doubt take a cork from your wine bottle, which should be beside you during this operation preferably half to 3/4 full. Insert podger into said cork and use with care! NB a full bottle of wine means you aren't taking the job seriously and it should be left until at least a little p*ss**.

Edited April 9, 2014 by Rodbr

[McMuttley]

"..... was it the correct way round? i.e facing back towards inside of the car."

 

Eh ????

 

so not carrying the forward slope of the screen nicely down to the scuttle ????

 

My PO should have spent more time on this forum !!!!

[stuart]

If you look at the rubber end on its "T" shaped but the top of the "T" is angled, the tail should face backwards when fitted to the frame.

Stuart.

[Rodbr]

Go to this.

http://www.coh-baines.co.uk/pdfs/catalogue_compressed.pdf

 

Download the pdf file

Page 58 centre ish part number IRS 1409EP is close but no coconut but gives the idea.

 

In reader click on view and rotate view and then clockwise.

 

Don't think I can make it much clearer

Edited April 9, 2014 by Rodbr

[McMuttley]

sorry (i am stupid afterall). so are we saying that the seal's long edge does not continue in the same plane as the glass (away from driver) but cuts "backwards" under the screen back twds the driver?

 

looking on the interweb, all pics i see seem to be wrong like mine??

 

any correct pics

[Rodbr]

Hi mutt,

The point of the backward cut of the rubber flap is that when you fit the screen it faces forward and you create tension across the scuttle as it stretches and conforms to the shape. With the screen off Visibly it looks like it shouldn't face forward and it does but under tension. Tr3a drop (NO PLACE) it down onto the scuttle and move it slightly back to align the holes. TR2 when you slide it into position it will automatically self align, taking care (lift the flap) at it passes over the wiper bosses.

This is why you must have the corner plates fitted to keep the tension and hold the rubber in place at the corners of the screen.

 

This pic is my old dog with lower screen rubber correctly fitted as per all the above. Zoom in and look at the profile and particularly nearest the stantion.

 

Edited April 9, 2014 by Rodbr

[McMuttley]

goes all blurry when you zoom in, but are you saying that in effect the rubber is folded under itself so that the thin end of the wedge faces the driver and the curve towards the bonnet, which might explain the references to tension and the corner finisher pushing it out into the corner ??????

 

 

.....mmmmmmm your paint is so shiny

[Rodbr]

Hi Mutt,

Drop me a PM and your number or I'll send you mine and we can talk this through, I am obviously not getting the point across and it is difficult to understand if you have never done it.

To be fair the picture is nearly 5meg so you should be able to see it and zoom in clearly. Drop me your email address and I'll send you the pics direct.

Rgds

Rod

[Ian Vincent]

Hi Ian,

Perhaps you could supply some context here:

TR2, Tr3 or Tr3a?

Did you fit a new rubber? If so was it the correct way round? i.e facing back towards inside of the car.

Were the screen and stantions a matched set and from the car? You might have a slightly longer one on that side, not as strange as you may think.

Was the screen frame rebuilt round a new glass? Are the screen frame corners a tight fit with little or no gap.?

Are the attachments to scuttle correct and did you trial fit the frame to the scuttle first, i.e were there any gaps at the attachment points. was it wider? Worst case I HEARD OF WAS A NEWLY RE BUILT SHELL THAT WAS 3 INCHES NARROWER ACCROSS THE SCUTTLE

Sometimes this is the reason why tenon plates are thinner, not there at all, or much thicker specials. Also why sometimes you need a squidge of Dum Dum in the corners, nothing to do with the rubber or fitting of it but more to do with the shape of your particular car.

 

Hi Rod,

 

It is a new seal that is fitted the correct way round and everything else about the screen is as it should be. One side sits nice and tight against the the scuttle the other has maybe a 1mm gap between the front edge of the seal and the scuttle just where Stuarts pic of his old and cracked rubber has a gap.

 

And yes the seal was left to straighten in the warm before fitting and it's a TR3a

 

Rgds Ian

[Rodbr]

Hi Ian,

Sounds like you have a longer or maybe bent stantion.on that side. Did they come off your car? As you know the height is determined by the attachment bolts and the screen in turn. For the frame to be higher by nearly 1/2" something ain't right

 

Failing that I would say that perhaps you were supplied with a short seal,

 

Sorry clutching at straws and have no idea what is going on but suggest a trip to consult expert advice from Stuart.

 

please let me know what transpires.

[Ian Vincent]

Hi Rod,

 

Thks for the reply.

 

The stantions are a pair, but when I get back to the UK I'll try increasing the tension on the seal to see if I can change the shape that it presents to the scuttle.

 

Rgds Ian

[Rodbr]

Hi Ian,

You need to stretch it from the middle out so that the whole rubber is under tension not just at the ends. Keeping tension on it then fit the retaining plate. If you don't stretch the rubber along it's length the rubber will move towards the plate and result in slack at the outer edge. It is a tight interference fit so just pulling at the end doesn't apply tension over the whole length.

When you fit the screen with the rubber tightly stretched the rubber flap stretches even more to form the seal over the scuttle.

FWIW the ends of the rubber should just curl down slightly conforming to the shape and downward slope of the screen. At this point you might need some Dum Dum or non setting screen sealer.

 

 

Good luck.

Rgds

Rod

Edited April 10, 2014 by Rodbr