Jim Allen Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Hi, Getting back to my TR2 Again - TS 7062 'O', Engine No. TS 7364E. 97,817 miles on the clock when I put it off the road due to a broken axle. My stalled restoration is about to start again. Chassis, running gear and 1/2 body work done some years ago. I suspect I'll be asking many questions so thanks in advance. The website looks like a fantastic resource that has arrived since I was last doing any work. I'm onto the engine. Have stripped it right down and am now looking for advice. I am thinking along the lines of: 1.Crack testing of block, head, crankshaft to make sure all OK (- what else should be tested) 2. 87 mm bore 3. Crankshaft hard chrome and grind to original. 4. Everything balanced. 5. Stick to low port head and 1&1/2in SUs (or should I find/buy a high port head?). 6. Having hardened valve seats fitted for unleaded fuel plus porting and polishing while this is being done. And now the questions. Any advice would be much appreciated 1. What other improvements should I build into the motor. 2. If I change the cam can I/do I need to have the block bored to fit bearings in the centre and rear of camshaft. 3. I am thinking I'd like to reassemble the motor myself or are there too many mistakes to fall into? Cheers Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 I think cam bearings are a good idea whether you change the cam or not. Also, you should seek out higher quality bearings (i.e. tri-metal - King or Vandervell). You need to carefully check clearances of the liners above the block face, and reusing studs or stud nuts is usually a false economy. Unless you are very confident in your skills, I would let a knowledgable chap build the motor. Yes, it is a rugged, simple agricultural based engine, but there are a few ways it can get buggered so if you can afford to have someone who has done these before, I suggest you do so. Finally, we want pictures! Aloha Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Welcome! Nice project you're about to start. I agree with Dan: I would have the engine rebuilld by a well reputated company unless you have a lot of skills and courage. There are a few other Sydney based forum members who can tell you more about that. On question: a lot of us already have a buss pass (...). Often this goes together with reading glasses. Somehow the size of the letter you've used is very small on a MacBook screen... Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 An improved rear main oil seal is good value, although if carefully assembled, the original scroll works fine. Suggest don't get too aggressive porting and polishing the head as the smaller inlet diameter TR4A heads were acually more efficient. Improving combustion chamber swirl helps performance. A new rocker shaft can be a good investment. The front chain tensioner was weak, so an upgrade is good. Often the tensioner has scored the front plate which then needs weld filling. You might need a speedy sleeve for the front timing cover seal. A new spigot bush in the rear of the crank is often overlooked as a worn one can cause trouble. Suggest never re-using head stud nuts as the threads stretch. ARP brand or head stud nuts with longer threads is a good upgrade. Check that the conrods and pushrods are all straight. Renew the large plug in the back of the head which often leaks as soon as the engine is back in the car. Mark internals to be reused in sequence 1 - 4 pots. Careful about choice of new 87mm pistons. Lighter pistons will rev quicker. Skimming a few lbs of the flywheel helps, but don't go overboard for a road car. If fitting an improved camshaft, definately get matching new lifters from the same supplier. These items have to be run in exactly as the maker describes to avoid early failure. When re-assembling, correct liner height above the deck is critical for head gasket sealing. Measure each liner for height in 4 places. Also use gasket cement or similar on all the coarse threaded bolts that penetrate into the block to stop oil seeping out (eg generator mount bracket). That's not chapter and verse - others will add. Viv. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ashley James Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Apart from frost damage cracks, the ones to look for are around the head studs, usually into the water jacket. You may have trouble knocking out the liners, especially the rear one because of the build up of crud in the water jacket, son once they are out, do a massive block clean out including taking out the oilway blanking bolts and cleaning them out. Balancing the crank and rods doesn't make a huge difference, but the clutch and flywheel do. It's essential if you fit a modern spring diaphragm one because they seem to be worse for vibrating. I built mine, it was my first TR engine build since the sixties and its running beautifully and oil tight. They are quite simple and quite relaxing to work on, so I'm doing another with a slightly hotter cam to see which I prefer. 87mm is a good mod. They are an extremely nice car and well worth the effort IMO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2SwissTriumphs Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Good luck completing your project Jim and as already mentioned above - don´t forget to show us a few pictures ! I keenly agree with many points so far mentioned. Use of good quality bearings being important and using new head studs and nuts rather than reusing the old ones. Spend a few pounds to save a few hundred ! Personally, I find an adjustable vernier timing set a must-have. I´ve built 5-6 of these engines over the last 2-3 years and I usually find that the standard timing gear does not facilitate accurate camshaft timing. Regards, Martin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Welcome Jim. I'll be tackling my engine soon (next year) so all of the info is good for future reference. Did anyone mention that pictures would be appreciated ?.. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Allen Posted October 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Welcome! Nice project you're about to start. I agree with Dan: I would have the engine rebuilld by a well reputated company unless you have a lot of skills and courage. There are a few other Sydney based forum members who can tell you more about that. On question: a lot of us already have a buss pass (...). Often this goes together with reading glasses. Somehow the size of the letter you've used is very small on a MacBook screen... Menno Hi Menno Thanks for the heads up. It looks like I need to use Font size 14. Let me know if it looks OK now. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Menno van Rij Posted October 4, 2012 Report Share Posted October 4, 2012 Hi Menno Thanks for the heads up. It looks like I need to use Font size 14. Let me know if it looks OK now. Jim Perfect!! Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic225 Posted October 5, 2012 Report Share Posted October 5, 2012 Hi guys, I'm just about ready to put my TR3A back together so this forum is really helping,thanks for that. Why would you need to replace the headstuds and nuts?Is there anything other than cracks to be worried about? I just did an ultasonic and MAGparticle test on them and they seem fine to me. And maybe some help for Jim, make sure that your pistons and conrods are the same weight,use the wifes kitchenscale.It doesn't give you more power but helps to make your engine rev easier,and go for the 4A head,they still pretty easy to come by and are better.Other than that,they really the most easy engines to rebuilt,so don't be afraid and give it a go. Good luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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