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I am fitting new trunions to a pair of used verticle links (new ones on back order since December!) and they are pretty tight in places as i screw them on, i have greased the threads to help try and ease them on. Is this normal, i assume if it is they work there way in with use.

2nd question is i have fitted new bronze bushes to the outer end of the lower wishbones and the pin the crosses the trunion and fits onto the arms is too large to fit into the bushes, do the bronze bushes have to be reamed out to make them the correct size? Any help appreciated..............

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Hi,

 

I had the same problem last year with a faulty set of new trunnions - sounds like the same issue.

 

try this link

http://www.tr-regist...l=&fromsearch=1

 

Good luck

 

John

 

ps - the same thread will also answer your question about the new bushes...they will need reaming.

Edited by Chilliman
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Hi Martin

 

If you have the one piece bush as supplied by the likes of Moss they will require reamering.the two piece oilite type supplied by Revington should not.Perhaps one of my learned friends on the Forum could confirm this.

 

Cheers Chris..

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Hi,

 

I had the same problem last year with a faulty set of new trunnions - sounds like the same issue.

 

try this link

http://www.tr-regist...l=&fromsearch=1

 

Good luck

 

John

 

ps - the same thread will also answer your question about the new bushes...they will need reaming.

 

 

Yes this old thread hits all the right points.

 

On the issue of 'glass hard threads'. Genuine trunnion pins have a bluing appearance on their threads -perhaps flame softened?

 

The original trunnion pin bush was a steel backed bronze faced split bush made by either Vandervell or Glacier bearing company (makers of big ends, mains, small end bushes etc) You had to ream the bush once fitted to suit the trunnion pin (5/8")

Quinton Hazel used to supply a solid brass bush in their repro front suspension rebuild kits (contained everything for both sides including top ball joints and sand cast trunnions for £12.50 from Pete Buckles in 1972) Still got the remnants and the box somewhere. For my money the brass bush was not a great idea as once it wore through you scrapped both the trunnion pin and wore the hole in the lower wishbone egg shaped. I do have some NOS bushes if any one is in need of such items.

 

Cheers

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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I am fitting new trunions to a pair of used verticle links (new ones on back order since December!) and they are pretty tight in places as i screw them on, i have greased the threads to help try and ease them on. Is this normal, i assume if it is they work there way in with use.

2nd question is i have fitted new bronze bushes to the outer end of the lower wishbones and the pin the crosses the trunion and fits onto the arms is too large to fit into the bushes, do the bronze bushes have to be reamed out to make them the correct size? Any help appreciated..............

 

 

Ive just done this on my 4.

 

You will need an adjustable reamer and do it a tiny amount at a time - where abouts are you, you can borrow mine?

 

Nick

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Thanks Nick i have bought one now, did you do one arm at a time or were both the arms on one side done at the same time (does the reamer reach through to do both in one go?).......

I have had 2 sets of trunions from 2 different suppliers now and none of them go up the threads of the `good used vertical links` that i bought. Not sure now if it is the links or the trunions that are no good!.................

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I did one at a time but I think the percieved wisdom is that you assemble the two bottom arms onto the spring pan. Then if the reamer is long enough ream straight through.

My problem was that the reamer I bought was too short so I reamed a slither out and tried the fit on the trunion arm - until I got a nice fit.

It all fitted together fine.

Regarding the thread on the vertical links - as others have said I also had a problem with my first trunion being tight. This was replaced and the second one fitted easily.

I would get them changed again if you can.

 

Ive just read your previous post and you say youve had 2 sets from 2 suppliers. I can understand you questioning your vertical links.

You havent said where youre from - but I have still got my old trunions if you wants to try them on your links? The threads on them are fine it was the arms worn out. They might give you an idea.

Edited by AlfredHitchcock
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Check the form of the threads on the vertical links, if pointy at the top of each thread then they are no good. Top of each thread should be flat.

Stuart.

Upright-1.jpg

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Check the form of the threads on the vertical links, if pointy at the top of each thread then they are no good. Top of each thread should be flat.

Stuart.

Upright-1.jpg

 

 

There is of course the old trick of filing the corner off the lock stop boss on the trunnion and then screwing the trunnion on another turn. We used to do this a lot to get through MOT's in the old days when V posts and Trunnions were NLS or outrageously expensive. - Valid Bodge? Same trick can sometimes be used on the steering idler.

 

Cheers

Peter W

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My old trunions screw all the way up the `good used` vertical links and the new trunions screw all the way up my old vertical links but the new trunions will only go onto the replacement links a couple of threads before going very tight................

I have a new old stock vertical link (one only unfortunatly)coming so that should give me the answer.

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There is of course the old trick of filing the corner off the lock stop boss on the trunnion and then screwing the trunnion on another turn. We used to do this a lot to get through MOT's in the old days when V posts and Trunnions were NLS or outrageously expensive. - Valid Bodge? Same trick can sometimes be used on the steering idler.

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

Yep had to do that years ago as well ;)

Stuart.

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Today i received the new old stock verticle link which still had the original wrapping around the thread, the new trunions only go on to it one thread, my old trunions go up it fine. This supplier is getting them back and i have been given a number by the parts supplier who supplies all the trade outlets with them in this country, this should put me in touch with their parts `trouble shooter`, if he has a decent verticle link hopefully he can go through a batch till he finds 2 good ones!..............Martin

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Hmm,

 

On inspecting the trunnions from my car before putting the suspension back together, I noted that the pins on both were badly pitted and corroded and, even with a good clean up, were really not going to work particularly well. As I was going to be nearby, I called into the TR shop to pick up a new pair today.

 

In light of the above discussion, I wanted to check that the trunnions fitted the vertical link whilst still at the shop. Using a NOS stanpart link, the new trunnions ran up the thread very easily but there was discernable play, in as much as you could feel the trunnion rocking on the VL. Not good, thought I, but I didn't really know how much movement is to be expected. Clealy, given the pitch of the thread and the fact that it isn't screwed up tight in the way that a nut and bolt, for example, would be, there must be some relative movement between the two parts. In an attempt to shed some light on the issue, we tried the same exercise with the same NOS link and a NOS trunnion that they had. This too exhibited some play.

 

Can anyone comment on how much relative movement between a trunnion and link can be expected. One of the ones off my car felt pretty solid whereas the other had more movement, albeit less than the ones I looked at today. Obviously, the ones off the car are full of grease whereas today's specimins were dry.

 

Comments and advice greatly appreciated.

 

Dave

Edited by Dave Herrod
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I received a reply from Moss today regarding the problem with the Trunion thread, as most people know they supply the other trade outlets in the UK.

 

`

This trunnion issue that you refer to has been apparent since 2003.

 

For years we used the same thread tap without ever getting a comment, then in January 03 we had a complaint from one customer that the

threads were too loose. We had a new tap made 0.002" smaller. Then we started getting complaints they’re too tight on maybe 1 in every 100.

We have also had 201803 upright made. On these the trunnion just about screws up. Lap it with fine paste ,wash off the paste and you've got a fit that’s about perfect. The problem we have is do we make them fit worn/distorted uprights or new uprights.

As a result of the above mentioned, we advise customers that have good vertical links to try lapping the trunnion with fine paste and work the link in the thread until it works well. Customers that have worn vertical links do not have this problem.

As all the trunnion threads are cut with the same tap, all our stock will be the same.

If you do not wish to try lapping the trunnions with either grease or fine paste into the vertical links then I am sorry, we cannot help you.`

 

So my options are to get a pair of good used trunions or use some fine grinding past and `lap them in`.

...............Martin

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I agree Moss have the thread cut 0.002" undersize with a special made tap.

What I think happens is - They cut the thread, then have the pin pressed in, which distorts the thread.

Ideally the thread should be recleared after the pin is pressed in.

 

 

I have a standard sized trunion tap and have used it often to clear the threads of Moss repro trunions when they are to be fitted to new uprights. I also silver solder the bottom grease cap in place after I have re tapped the grease nipple thread correctly.

 

Cheers

Peter W

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Well, whatever you do ....don't fill the trunnions with grease. you should never do that... they're supposed to be filled with heavy oil ...BUT better yet... the magic stuff is..... fill them with neat STP buy a small grease gun , fill with STP and load trunnions.. as it's a liquid, it never goes hard, or oozes out. .. this stuff is pure magic.... fill your steering box with it too....

 

Captainboggles.

 

paul m

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Martin,

Where are you ?

 

The thread is 13/16 NC x 10 tpi

 

I got it from a tap and die company in Sheen.

 

Cheers

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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