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accelerator pedal


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Trying to solve a few mysteries on TS4178, the accelerator pedal has been altered, what looks original is the 3/8" rod nicely radiussed turning 90 degrees and finishing with a groove machined into it to accept a grub screw maybe, as if the original way was a separate pedal which was held on by a grub screw, what has been done is to crudely weld on a pedal with about 3" of 3/8" bar attached to it. They have just welded the 2 sections of 3/8 bar together! Cant be right can it? Would put up a photo but don't know how, I will send a picture to someone who can.

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Here is how to post a picture:

 

1. Open an account with an online photo-hosting site (I use Photobucket).

2. Upload the picture you want to post to the hosting site.

3. Copy the IMG code from the hosting site.

4. Paste the IMG code directly into your message.

 

That is how this one is done.

 

BodyBackTogether.jpg

 

Send me a PM if you'd like me to post a picture for you.

 

Cheers, Mike

Edited by Mike Graham
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P1010432-2.jpg

Found a few minutes to have a go uploading a picture here is my accelerator pedal, and Thanks to Mike Graham who sent me simple instruction how to do it!!

 

John Worthing

Edited by TR24178
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The original was a pedal welded on top of the end of the metal rod. Perhaps the pedal was changed to try and get better heel and toe down shifts, or for a shorter driver.

 

Not sure what two sections of rod means as it was one piece.

 

Viv.

 

PS After seing the pics, that's a LHD pedal. It should be one piece for RHD with the rod shaped to clear the brake/clutch pedals.

Edited by vivdownunder
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Yes, it is lhd, thats how I am keeping it. Because it had been tack welded together at some point, I had to put the grinderette into the cross shaft to dissemble it, but if you look carefully you can see the original end of the shaft has a groove machined in it, how did the original pedal fit to this, was the pedal detachable or welded?

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Hi.

 

Assembly is shown clearly in the parts book. The rod is in two pieces, but held together by the bush and two Mills pins, not grub screws.

 

Les

Edited by Les
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Thought I had some pictures of the shaft on the workbench, but I can't find any. Here are three I took just in the car. One inside the car, and one of each end. Both ends are held together with pins. So there are three main pieces. The pedal, the cross shaft, and the opposite pivot end going to carbs. Hope these help. Cheers, Mike

 

Accel_1.jpg

 

Accel_2.jpg

 

Accel_3.jpg

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I have now dissembled the whole shaft, here are 2 pictures, how does the original missing pedal fix to the spigotted end of the pedal lever?

 

 

P1010437-1.jpg

P1010435-1.jpg

Edited by TR24178
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Hi Les

Thanks for the picture, don't have a parts book.

 

But it does not show how my pedal would have been fixed to the pedal lever, notice the grooved end not like the way the other pedal is fixed to the lever. Did the early cars have a rubber end that just pushed on the lever? like a mushroom?

 

John

Edited by TR24178
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I suspect a DPO bodge as all the early cars had exactly the same pedal arrangement as the later ones.

Stuart.

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Hi Les

Thanks for the picture, don't have a parts book.

 

But it does not show how my pedal would have been fixed to the pedal lever, notice the grooved end not like the way the other pedal is fixed to the lever. Did the early cars have a rubber end that just pushed on the lever? like a mushroom?

 

John

 

 

John, what you have is barely recognizable as a TR3 pedal assembly. Here is an assembly from a lhd TR3A, apologies for the barnacles.

 

IMG_0100.jpg

 

 

If you take this assembly apart the pedal and shaft is in one piece all the way across the bulkhead. There is a bush on the LHS which I imagine acts as a stop and there is a union at the other end where it connects to the lever and the end of the shaft. Both the bush and the connector are attached to the shaft with roll pins.

 

Here is the naked pedal with shaft.

 

IMG_0098.jpg

 

This is from a post 60K LHD TR3A

 

Stan

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John, all LHD sidescreen cars had the same pedal assembly. The shaped pedal part was permanently welded to the rod. There was no rubber boot on the pedal - it was always just bare metal.

 

It needs the stop bracket shown in Stan's above pic and Mike's. This engages with an adjustable bolt on the footwell to stop the carby spindles being strained at full throttle.

 

Regards,

 

Viv.

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Thanks everyone, can easily reassemble my collection of bits into the correct configuration, with help of the mig and some careful fettling, had a good day today collecting some nice bits for the restoration, BBC's warning of icy roads and not to travel unless it was essential was completely wrong the only ice encountered was on our driveway, collecting TR bits is essential BBC!!

Edited by TR24178
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There appear to be two different accelerator pedals fiited to lhd cars with the change occuring at TS28921 according to the parts book.

 

The first is as depicted in the book with the bush joining the pedal assembly to the shaft by means of two Mills pins. The later type as seen in Stan's photograph has the pedal and shaft as one piece with the (different) bush attached by a single Mills pin, presumably for location purposes.

 

Hard to see a reason for the change apart from fewer parts.

 

Mike

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Here is the result of my Sunday afternoon's labour, as well as Watching Wales win against Scotland!!!!

 

I think I will use roll pins to replace the well bashed up Mills pins.

 

P1010440-1.jpg

Edited by TR24178
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Assembley looking good now John, good idea to replace the Mills pins the taper normally means you can't get them out without total dismantaling.

 

Been there done it when collecting my TR4, drove it home using a length of cord through the bulkhead onto the carb linkage, heavyyyyyyyy springs to overcome in a progressive manner, glad you and Mary got home safely on Saturday.

 

Mick Richards

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  • 2 years later...

I reassembled my accelerator pedal assembly today. I media blasted the original pins thinking I would find some tapered pins but instead I see they were straight pins to start with and one end was crimped to make it wider and wedge itself into the hole.

 

I considered using roll pins and needing to cut them to size for a minute and then said sod it, I'm going to use the originals.

 

Hardest part of the project was straightening the long section of the shaft.

 

Stan

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The pins are similar in style to the ones in the boot and bonnet hinges with a knurling on the end. L/hand drive throttle pedals are usually bent across the firewall where engines have been in and out over the years.

Stuart.

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The pins are similar in style to the ones in the boot and bonnet hinges with a knurling on the end. L/hand drive throttle pedals are usually bent across the firewall where engines have been in and out over the years.

Stuart.

 

Not quite as elegant as machined splines but a similar effect achieved by crimping the pin end using what looks like a three jawed tool.

 

ShaftPin_zpsa1c2ab7b.png

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Here is an UK maker or distributor of Mills Pins.

Might be lucky and get imperial sized.........

http://www.findtheneedle.co.uk/companies/technifast-ltd/products/mills-pins

 

Cheers

Peter W

 

PS. Imperial taper pins made for aircraft use.

http://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=S02K230N1

 

Or for the racing boys who want to lock the taper pin in place, same way as a split pin

 

http://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=Q02TO5GFF

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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  • 2 weeks later...

About half way down the arm. This on a 4 but same applies to earlier cars.

Stuart.

photo1608_zps0f91fd60.jpg

Edited by stuart
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