Adjusting Steering Box Endfloat

[alexander]

Setting end float in the steering box

 

Help again please, I’ve read the manual re setting the steering box but

I’m still unsure how to measure for end float in the steering box, is it just trail and error with the shims until the steering is at it’s least stiffness or is a dial gauge used and if so where do you place it?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Alexander

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Setting end float in the steering box

 

Help again please, I've read the manual re setting the steering box but

I'm still unsure how to measure for end float in the steering box, is it just trail and error with the shims until the steering is at it's least stiffness or is a dial gauge used and if so where do you place it?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Alexander

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have done the trial and error method-assembly - keep checking the 'feel' as you add or remove shims. Do not forget the gasket! Once all feels nice build in the lever and adjust to get hi spot. Be careful to wrap tape round the spline on the lever pin as you fit the seal or you will cut the seal surface - and it will leak.

The whole job is quite easy on the bench.

 

Cheers

Peter W

[alexander]

Thanks Peter for the reply, my box is in the car and I thought that there would be a method of setting the end float using a dial gauge as feel can be a little subjective in my case. Did a little searching on the web and found a detailed article re setting the steering box using a dial test gauge by a Bob Westerdale. Will be having a go over the weekend prior to fitting the front panel.

 

Alexander

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Thanks Peter for the reply, my box is in the car and I thought that there would be a method of setting the end float using a dial gauge as feel can be a little subjective in my case. Did a little searching on the web and found a detailed article re setting the steering box using a dial test gauge by a Bob Westerdale. Will be having a go over the weekend prior to fitting the front panel.

 

Alexander

 

 

I've read the ROM now and it says some preload is acceptable but no end float. I suggest the trial and error fitment, adding and subtracting shims 'till the feel is with smooth. Go a thou or too tight from that point to feel what pre load is like. There will be a distinct tightness or even grittiness. Over tighten the pre load and you will dent the balls or the race areas.

 

You could set up a dial indicator on the steering column end to measure end float when you first start with a known shim, pack thickness (bit like doing a diff) - very fiddly tho, especially on a long column car. We did my brother's short column in about an hour without removing the apron, a great improvement to the steering feel and reaction.

 

 

What ever you do be sure to eliminate all end float from the column or the steering will be sloppy. Refill the column with the chosen lube before putting the apron back on, it is easier to part fill through the filler plug in the box then dribble the remainder through the hole in the column outer tube.

 

 

Cheers

 

Peter W

Edited August 26, 2011 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[alexander]

Hi Peter

I used a depth gauge off the end of the bottom outer bearing to give me a starting point and then by feel. Once happy with end float I fitted a spring loaded top plate and adjusted to the manual.

 

The steering feels a whole lot better but as I can’t test on the road I may have to make small adjustment once the car is on the road.

 

Alexander

[irrational]

Just reviving this topic for some answers.

 

The first and most important question is: What on earth is "End Float"? How do I feel it if it is pre-loaded, or floating?

I know I can adjust the peg, but the Manual talks about end float first and I have no idea what this is or how to tell if it needs adjusting.

Furthermore there is nothing on if it terrible or ok to adjust the peg, leaving the End Float as is.

 

All I know is that my steering has about an inch or so of play, which is just enough to be disconcerting at speed. I assume the peg or something is worn, but considering the age, there really could also be issues with bushes etc.

Otherwise the steering is very good when cornering and is loaded up. Its just that little play that I'd like to diminish some without rebuilding the box, which is a future job.

 

Dirk

[Lebro]

To check "end float" first slacken off the peg so there is lots of free play, the steering should now feel very light while not actually doing anything.

Then try to move the steering wheel downwards towards the steering box, then up & away from the box.

Any movement you feel is "end float". To alter the end float you have to remove the bottom (front) square plate from the steering box, and add, or remove shims from between the box & the plate. this changes the gap between the two ball races which the shaft & the worm run in.

Too much end float & you need to remove shims, if the steering is tight to turn with peg out of the way then you may need to add shims (unlikely)

 

Once you have done this re-adjust the peg height to remove as much play as possible without making the steering too stiff (best done with both front wheels off the ground).

There are many places on a TR2-3A where lost movement can happen:

box end float

peg mal adjustment

worn output shaft bush in base of box

worn track rod ends (4 in total)

worn rubber bushes on centre track rod

 

Good luck

Bob.

Edited November 4, 2017 by Lebro

[irrational]

Thanks Bob!

 

That makes it perfectly clear. 8)

I just completed a full front suspension bush and joint replacement, so that is sorted out and it made little to no difference to the play.

 

I know the play is at all angles of turned wheels, not just center. But I also notice its bloody annoying trying to get a spanner into that tight spot!

I do need to weld the radiator at some stage as it has a small leak where the arm joins the body. So maybe its just time to do a nose removal and general work while there.

 

Dirk

[stuart]

Replacing the Pitman arm pin often helps considerably to remove wear. If your somewhere that is difficult to obtain a new one then pressing it out and turning through 90degrees and replace will give you a lot more service out of it.

Stuart.

[Lebro]

Do you mean the rocker shaft peg - item 39 in the moss catalogue ?

 

A worn bush item 40 can cause a lot of play

 

https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID200488

 

Bob.

Edited November 5, 2017 by Lebro

[Tonyloz]

Is it worth it to fit the uprated silentbloc to the cross shaft?

I seem to have a lot of movement in the renewed bushes

[stuart]

Do you mean the rocker shaft peg - item 39 in the moss catalogue ?

 

A worn bush item 40 can cause a lot of play

 

https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID200488

 

Bob.

Yes but the pin is more often the culprit.

Stuart.

[stuart]

Is it worth it to fit the uprated silentbloc to the cross shaft?

I seem to have a lot of movement in the renewed bushes

The Nylatron Moss ones are much better than the Revington solid bronze ones

Stuart.

[BrianC]

The Nylatron Moss ones are much better than the Revington solid bronze ones

Stuart.

Interesting - I have recently fitted the Revington upgrade bushes, so what problems should I expect?

[stuart]

Interesting - I have recently fitted the Revington upgrade bushes, so what problems should I expect?

I just find that they transmit road feel much more through being virtually solid. They are also an irreversable fit as you have to ream the rod ends to fit.

Stuart.

[Hamish]

I have bronze bushes on my 3a.

I like the feel/feedback I get.

Had I big compliment by others that know these cars much better than I, whilst pushing my car around to set up the stand at the manchester classic car show he thought it had a R & P conversion the steering was so good.