Drivers Door Lock

[tonycharente]

Tony,

on the backplate they are identified as NS and OS (not LH & RH as I previously stated). The barrels appear to have no markings.

 

Roger

 

 

Hello All,

Thanks for all the extra input!

 

Roger, I was just about to reply to one of your earlier postings to say that there was neither LH or RH on my RH handle casting, and that the only letters were SO... ...so that's OS the other way up!... ...when I went on line to find all these other postings. I can't immediately look at my "LH" one as it currently fitted (and working perfectly) on the RH door and all put back together nicely - clearly I need to look at it though if I want to know for sure whether it actually is a RH lock or not.

 

I'll get back to this in a few days time.

 

Thanks again,

Tony

[AlanT]

I had my handles replated by a local chrome guy who specialises in Bike/Car stuff.

With Mazak you tend to get small pits. These he painstakingly ground away. They came back almost as new.

 

They are still as good 4 years on. Mind you they dont see UK winters.

 

There are no parts inside these locks that could not be made by hand with a bit of patient filing except maybe the lock barrels. I could make these but the narrow slots for the wards would be a pain. But Moss sells these barrels and this is probably the best answer..

 

So anybody with a ropey handle could rebuild it rather than use the alternative ones.

 

I suppose everybody must know that it hardly matters if the key-lock does not work. The design is such that the lever needs to be pushed down to get in. A hacksaw blade between the glass and rubber strip could hardly fail to open the door.

 

I'll check but a credit card might reach far enough too. Would save walking about with a blade sticking out of your pocket. Be careful where you park.

 

Al.

[trevor]

I too removed and replaced my lock a few months back , and it was a tale of wow.

Help was found from ,Peter Weston known as 'The Lock Man'

willmotlockman@gmail.com or 07973 374722

he regularily writes articles in the Classic press.

I bought the replacement kit so the locks were'nt al different no's. but the new barrels do protrude fron the handels a mm or so.

I do have few spare bits and pieces if needed.

[peejay4A]

Seconded. I have a lock barrel set from Peter and as you say the barrels protrude ever so slightly. They're also not marked Lock and Unlock like the originals but that's not a big deal.

[littlejim]

Glad you guys have tackled this, I got a far as a liberal dose of WD40 (passenger door) which held it for a few weeks and then it was U/S, although as with John's, it will open with the key or you can just lean in and grab the internal

 

So, not too much of a problem really and one that can wait until after the IWE !!

 

Not solving your problem, ie. gratuitous advice; I always use powdered graphite for the locks, rather than oily stuff(wd40), which likes mixing with dust and making things stick eventually.

[peejay4A]

Lock-eze is the name it was sold under here. It was good for lubricating the lock barrel and pins but wouldn't penetrate into the depths of the mechanism if it was in situ.

[RogerH]

Hi Pete/Trev,

if your original barrels are usable then you could remove the spring loaded pegs from the new barrel and put them in the old barrels

That way you have flush barrels and an arrow to help lock it.

However it is usually knackered barrels that instigate the change in the first place.

 

Roger

[AlanT]

Just bought a used RH door-lock from the USA. When it arrrived it fitted my key!

 

Is this because I am very lucky or are there only a few different keys?

 

Al.

[peejay4A]

I think I'd take a close look at the lock barrel.

[boxofbits]

Hi all

 

With regard to this thread I have an issue with reassembly, and in particular the circular spring which returns the barrel to the neutral position.

 

I realise it is the first component to fit over the lock sleeve, but I cannot see where the two tags of the spring locate on the barrel assembly and wondered if someone could explain? Also, does the plastic washer sit between the large spring and the lock lever?

 

Your help would be appreciated, as when the assembly was re-chromed I was given back a bag of parts to reassemble!

 

Regards

 

Kevin

[RogerH]

Hi Kev,

I'm working form a dodgy grey cell here but the spring you have has the ends bent in.

The spring fits over the outside of the barrel containing body and the ends lock into the barrel.

This allows the barrel to rotate and spring back in both directions.

 

good luck

 

Roger

[AlanT]

This should show how it goes:

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/44410-door-handles-nice-winter-job/

[RogerH]

Hi Folks,

I had to play with a pair of handles the other week and they were completely bu99ered even though they looked new.

Early in this post there was a little confusion (on my part) about the handed nature of some of the components.

So I've made a list of the bits and their handednocity . (if there are errors please inform me and I'll update it)

 

Door Handle Components

Item Either side Handed

Handle Yes

Push Button Yes

Barrel (new) Yes

Barrel (with arrow) Yes

Ali Barrel actuator Yes

Actuator lever Yes

Back plate Yes

Springs Yes

Retaining washer Yes

 

The barrels are available new. The springs, actuator lever and Ali barrel actuator could easily be remade.

The retaining washer could be a devil but do'able.

 

There is an 'alternative' (that is like saying that the track on a Panzer tank is an alternative to a 165x15 Pirelli).

The body and push button look good.

Does anybody know what the insides contain.?

Could it be rebuilt using original spares.?

Could the back plate be mod'd to accept the lever etc.?

Could the rear fixing hole in the body of the handle be re-positioned as per OEM (is there enough meat).?

 

Roger

[AlanT]

The bit that makes the locking "flakey" is that there are two independant locking actions.

 

There is the business of the plunger sliding back into the button, so it does not push the paddle, on the part that meets the B-post.

 

Then there is the lever that moves the springy-thingy, so as to release the locking action of the internal door-handle.

 

There is rather a lot to go wrong I fear.

 

photos of locks here:

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/44410-door-handles-nice-winter-job/

Edited November 16, 2014 by AlanT