RogerH Posted August 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 Hi Bob, this is what I've come up with to press the LTD's in. The drill shank is used to centralise the LTD. Once it is punched in the LTD is then removed and the fabric hole opened up. I have a cunning plan on the tool for squeezing it together. At Present I'm Using Mole grips. My next tool will be to disassemble the Leather punch - it has 6 punches on a wheel. I shall remove the wheel. This will give me a two pronged set of squeezers with a solid base. On wards and upwards. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 6, 2017 Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 Hi Bob, this is what I've come up with to press the LTD's in. The drill shank is used to centralise the LTD. Once it is punched in the LTD is then removed and the fabric hole opened up. I have a cunning plan on the tool for squeezing it together. At Present I'm Using Mole grips. My next tool will be to disassemble the Leather punch - it has 6 punches on a wheel. I shall remove the wheel. This will give me a two pronged set of squeezers with a solid base. On wards and upwards. Roger P1060167a.jpg P1060168a.jpg P1060169a.jpg Mark a DOT on the base part of the tool so you know the orientation of the tool to the fastener. Error proofing. The expensive punch https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/151ltd-punch-tool-for-lift-the-dot-cloth-socket or here is a cheapo punch http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lift-the-Dot-fasteners-stud-socket-2ba-threaded-fastener-boat-canopy-cover-tool-/191710160972?var=&hash=item2ca2d0e84c Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted August 6, 2017 Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 I use the cheap one... works great .... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 Hi Folks, here is the squeezy thing I made to push the LTD's through the fabric It is a 6 punch leather punch. Wheel removed and bobs your uncle. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Hi Folks, well, I've achieved one goal this summer. I wanted to get the roof fitted whilst the weather is still warm. Thankfully this I have done and am quite pleased with the finish. All the LTD fasteners have covered all the holes I've punched in the fabric It took quite a few days to ensure that mistakes were kept to a minimum. I don;t think I made anything serious. I've still got a few little bits to do but the heavy stuff is sorted. I was pleased with the LTD insertion tool I made. If anybody is thinking of installing LTD fasteners give me a call and I'll lend you my tool. See the above posts for pics. Roger Some pics Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Nice job. What stops the rain sneaking over the screen frame & under the hood front ? ( that's where mine leaks - but it's bit different to a '3) & will we be seeing the "Racer" at the Surrey Oaks at any stage ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 Hi Bob, the fabric tucks under the front lip of the frame cap. The gap between the cap and the frame is sealed. So the water should stay one side and me on the other. I'm sure it will get to the Oaks but I don;t know when. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MilesA Posted August 8, 2017 Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Roger All that fiddling and fettling was absolutely worth it - love the colour combination too! Miles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Hi Miles, thanks. I was in two minds about the colour. I quite fancied BRG. There is light at the end of the tunnel - the 3.15 from Paddington Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 (edited) Hi folks, today I took a break from the upholstery and decided to fit a reversing light switch on the GB top cover. In order to drill and tap the cover you need to remove the three selector rods. The forks on the rods are kept in place with taper lock screws (deep joy ) Two were difficult but came out. The third came out - well half of it came out. The other half stayed put. The only way to get them out is to drill down the centre. Then open out the holes with bigger and bigger drills trying not to damage the threads etc. having got to as big as I dare go I tap the selector fork and shear off the remaining thread in the hole. This worked well. But it left quite a lump of threaded screw in the fork. I could just get a 5/16UNF to start in the hole. In turning the tap into the hole caused the screw remnants to screw itself out the other end. The Pics show how accurate the drilling was - by hand. Roger Edited August 11, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 11, 2017 Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 9.5 out of ten Same problem as clutch cross shafts I guess. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted August 11, 2017 Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 Roger, Well done on the hood fabric and the selector fork screw. Should have done the selector first so you had grubby finger marks on the trim from point go. The taper screws I consider to be a horror show. I think you need a hobby.... Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2017 Hi Peter, when I retired in 2009 I had two main hobbies that I was looking forward to - Fishing and Golf. I've had about three rounds of golf in 8 years and a simliar amount of fishing. I am better at pulling fish out of the water than smacking golf balls in a straight line. Does anybody want a fishing match. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted August 12, 2017 Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 Well now that you have baby goldfish at home the fishing possibilities must surely be increasing Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 12, 2017 Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 :P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 Well now that you have baby goldfish at home the fishing possibilities must surely be increasing Roger Can you imagine the size of hook i would need - nano- technology. The other week my daughter in law wanted one of the Goldfish. When we were away for the week end she came around and tried and tried to catch a GF. No success at all. There are dozens of the bu99ers near the surface and a 6" cooks sieve nearby - how can you not catch a GF. She was after the one with the spot near its nose - just that one . And she can vote as well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PYU940F Posted August 12, 2017 Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 Roger, your reversing light switch seems to have been a mission for the 3 times you are going to drive it at night. For those 3 times 2 will be only be going forwards so what was wrong with a teeny little finger operated switch somewhere nobody could see for the one back up? Much more time for golf, fishing and beer doing it the easy way. :-) Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 (edited) Hi Simon, the GB tunnel is off and I have all the tools for the job. So a switch was inserted. Before I did the 4A last year I knocked up a 30 second timer to turn the rev lights off. A toggle switch can leave the lights on The GB switch is the better way to go and is quite easy to do when the GB is already exposed. As a note - The switch has a most odd thread form 5/8 x 13tpi BUT the 16mm tap works very well. Roger Edited August 13, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted August 12, 2017 Report Share Posted August 12, 2017 As a nore - The switch has a most odd thread form 5/8 x 13tpi BUT the 16mm tap works very well. Talking of odd thread sizes, just been fitting a new Edelbrock carb on a friends TR V8 and discovered that the fuel inlet needed changing from the supplied straight pipe to a 90 banjo fitting, easy just order one on line. Then discover thread size is 5/8" 20 tpi UNS where the "S" means special, funny only people in the world that seem to make a banjo fitting in that thread "Edelbrock" quick way to add $20 to the base price of the carb! Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) Hi Alan, if the banjo was brass then it could have been an - Admiralty thread 5/8 x 20 Core dia 5/8, ADM, 0.625, 15.88, 20, .0 1.270, 0.5610, 14.249, 0.0320, 0.813 or a CE120 thread (haven't clue what that is) 5/8 x 20 5/8, CEI20, 0.625, 15.88, 20, .0 1.270, 0.5718, 14.524, 0.0266, 0.676, 60º Roger Edited August 13, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Many thanks for the input Roger, next time I need one I'll try popping down to a Naval Shipyard, wonder what weird purpose caused the need for a non standard thread! Mind you having spent years once developing a system to account and bill for T&M production for the Navy, my expectation is that the cost to the Navy of every such Banjo bolt would probably be in the £100 bracket, but it would probably have come sealed in wax, and in a neat little wooden box! Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Hi Alan, I have a listing of every standard thread in Christendom and there are a few. There are some odd bu99ers. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 Don't forget the "Black Russian". Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MichaelH Posted August 13, 2017 Report Share Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) I remember adding a reversing light switch by drilling the cover with that funny thread (discussed above and before) I think I used M16 which is close enough. and threading in a switch like the O/D switches I did take the cover off but didn't take it to bits which I have only done recently The switch could go on the left side of the top cover just below the gear stick or on the top cover the spot were on raised bumps already on the top cover I will dig out the photos if you want to see Regards as usual BTW I actually went out in my TR today and my wife came too it went really well Michael Edited August 13, 2017 by MichaelH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2017 (edited) Hi Michael, that switch thread is an odd one. - 5/8" x 13tpi. The M16 works well. Instead of binding slightly due to the thread pitch mismatch it actually screws in easier - core diameter probably a gnats smaller. I have found that taking the top cover to pieces is quite easy unless one or more of the taper lock screws decide not to play ball. Roger Edited August 14, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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