Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi Folks,

Feb 2010 saw a new TR join the household a TR4 to join the TR4A. When I say new it was and still is old, March 1962 to be precise.

The plan was to take the panels off give it a clean put ot back together and make a few quid on the deal :blink:

Reality isn't my big thing.

The dead line of July 2010 came and went - so did many other dates.

Still, lots of work done. Unfortunately the winter weather beat me. In Feb 2011 I sent for reinforcements and Glenn at Protek came to the rescue.

Off went the car for Glenn and Chris to do the final touches plus a coat of paint.

I agreed a price - £40, Glenn suggested it would be nearer £50. Glenn won but we were both quite a few thousand out.

Meanwhile I set to stripping and rebuilding the engine. I find engines fairly easy as things tend to fit better than the rather intolerant body bits.

Monday May 23rd saw the return of the body/chassis/wheels and it looked very nice indeed - Royal Blue (56)- the paint work is mirrorlike.

The panels were in the right place, the doors opened and closed, absolutely marvelous.

24th, I had to do something so I put in the new loom, heater, boot stay. I then had to have a rest, too much excitement.

Had a battle with the door straps, still not happy (long story).

It's amazing how long some things take to do. The namber plates were a bit grubby so I decided to renovate them. They are the 'ACE' solid ali numbers. Off they came. Repaint the base plate, repaint the numbers. Sounds easy but, no. Anyway they are now complete.

 

Monday had me fitting the fuel tank, boot handle and the 'TR4' chrome name plate.

Today I decided to fit the engine and gearbox. I took the pair out together and it was definately straining at the lifting chain.

To put it back I chose to put the engine in on its own - easy peasy.

The gearbox was lowered in on a hoist but despite wiggling and jiggling I couldn't fit the little sh*t.

Out with the box, out with the engine.

Assemble on the drive - it really is so much easier to fit the two together without the car anywhere near them.

The hoist did a manly job. It lifted the pair without issue. The whole thing slid into position with alarm (even with Sue helping me :P )

 

The car now has a heart and looks as though it may even go one day.

 

The car has an unknown racing/rallying history so today I've christened it 'Blue Racer'

 

More tomorrow, maybe.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 1.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Well, Heavens above it passed the MOT with a very badly painted rear wing.   Had an interesting day today. I needed to spray the  rear wing from the TR4. I did this last week and it wen

Hi Folks, well that was quite prophetic !!!!!!  Lockdown on March 23rd certainly threw a spanner in the works, So after 8 months sleep the Blue Racer has risen and having risdid is now at ho

Hi Roger, I recently had the "opportunity" (not) to do some bodywork on and respray my rear wing. I bought a very cheap (customer return) small garden gazebo on ebay and put it up in my garage. I

Posted Images

Hi Folks,

todays installment. I fitted the two twiddly heater hoses (under the dash) and the bulkhead connector.

With no dash fitted it is an easy job. I hope they last a long time as re-fitting with the dash etc looks a nightmare.

 

Tried to fit the boot seal (see other posting), not good. I shall fit the one off the 4A later today to see what's going on.

 

Lawns, bank and hair cut will slow things down this afternoon.

 

One c*ck-up from yesterdays hardwork is that having installed the engine and gearbox I awoke with a start this morning realising that I haven't wire locked the taper pin in the clutch fork. I can feel a 1" diameter hole coming on - that engine isn't coming out again.

 

On the subject of 1" daimeter holes I had an idea quiet a while ago about putting a hole directly beneath the taper pin so that it could be removed/renewed easily. They last about 40K-50K miles before starting to crack. so replace every 5 years and one should have no trouble!!!

 

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Folks,

todays installment. I fitted the two twiddly heater hoses (under the dash) and the bulkhead connector.

With no dash fitted it is an easy job. I hope they last a long time as re-fitting with the dash etc looks a nightmare.

 

Tried to fit the boot seal (see other posting), not good. I shall fit the one off the 4A later today to see what's going on.

 

Lawns, bank and hair cut will slow things down this afternoon.

 

One c*ck-up from yesterdays hardwork is that having installed the engine and gearbox I awoke with a start this morning realising that I haven't wire locked the taper pin in the clutch fork. I can feel a 1" diameter hole coming on - that engine isn't coming out again.

 

On the subject of 1" daimeter holes I had an idea quiet a while ago about putting a hole directly beneath the taper pin so that it could be removed/renewed easily. They last about 40K-50K miles before starting to crack. so replace every 5 years and one should have no trouble!!!

 

 

Roger

 

Cross pinned you shouldnt ever need to replace.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Stuart,

in deed the cross pinning is a sensible way around this weakness.

I went for bushing the bottom of the hole and machining the end of the taper pin to go into the bush.

This puts it into a very good double shear - I defy it to break.

 

All I have to do now istry and wire lock it :(:(

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Stuart,

in deed the cross pinning is a sensible way around this weakness.

I went for bushing the bottom of the hole and machining the end of the taper pin to go into the bush.

This puts it into a very good double shear - I defy it to break.

 

All I have to do now istry and wire lock it :(:(

 

Roger

 

Hmm possibly not through a 1" hole (need for the man with the long arm and the bowler hat :ph34r: ) ;)

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger

It can and should be wired :( however I have seen your idea before and you can do it with potatoe sack twist and yes you can get the wire in stainless you will need to cut one end of and thread it

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Folks,

todays installment. Fitted the window winder mechanisms, internal door handles and the horns. These went in easy, no problems at all.

The door window glass is scatched where it runs up the guides so new glass I fear.

Phoned the chrome platers for an update on some bits - ready next week, but I'm on holiday for two weeks. So it will be a busy period when I get back.

The new boot seal turned up today but as I wasn't in the postie took it away :angry: .

Tomorrow I will fit the seal. Why do the suppliers sell seals that don't fit :blink: .

 

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Greetings Folks,

I'm back from my holiday. Had a marvellous tour of the coast of Scotland with the TR Isles Tour. The best places must be Apple Cross and Mull. Unbelievably there were no midges to worry about (except a brief stop at Balmoral, little buggers in droves).

 

Popped into the chrome platters on Monday to be told they will be ready next week. I think platters are from Gallifrey as they can change/effect time at will. Roll on next week.

Have ordered the roof (Maroon mohair), blue carpet, red interior to go with the roof. The only thing I couldn't come to terms with are the seat. They are the original early TR4 seats in black with white piping and in very good condition - so they stay as is.

 

Fitted the rad + pipes and all is good. Again I had to dabble. The stays for the rad attach to two very iffy pieces of steel welded to the cross shaft. The angle of the stay doesn't look right and one of the welded tags was missing. So!. Off came the other one and I have now attached the stays to the bodywork on the section that the horn attaches to. There is a cut-out for the stay in exactly the correct position. So that's where they are and are staying put. To justify my action I have made up my mind that is where TRiumph wanted them in the first place but they had a job lot of long stays and the welded tag was the easy option - if you dare disagree I'll send Sue around to discuss the matter further. :o

 

Number plates all finished and looking good. Rear lights fitted (original shells with all new chrome).

Fuel cap fitted. It's amazing how a little bit of shiney metalwork cheers up the overall appearance on a drak car (Royal Blue).

 

The drive dog of the starter motor was quite worn. These are about half the price of a new Hi-Torque starter so I've put one of those on.

 

yesterday I fitted the exhaust/carb manifolds only to find I had a large attachment clamp missing (the car came like this along with other bits missing, and it was a drivable car).

 

I'm starting on stripping and painting the wire wheels. This is a bit of a juggling act as I can only do one wheel at a time in order to keep the car mobile.

 

I'll try and sort out some pics at some stage.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

On the industrial scene lockwires went the way of the Dodo decades ago. Once the wire is in play the game is already over, as a loose bolt will shear in due course <_<

 

I've never lockwired mine and never regretted it. If it's properly seated on its taper and torqued ( i.e. " tight " - I never use a calibrated wrench on them ) it won't back out and I suppose you've seen to that - so don't bother going back in, I say.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tom,

I agree with the 'if it's tight it shouldn't move' point. But!!! the taper pin and the tapered hole are not perfectly matched so there may be a very very small amount of movement that could eventually cause the bolt to unscrew (Murphy's 1st law).

 

However to support your view further I have modified the taper screw tip to sit in a bush so that the whole thing is in very positive double shear.(Hogies 1st law of dabbling)

 

The wirelocking is there only to prevent the screw falling out completely (I think). With my mod and the wire it should last a life time.

 

When I get under the car (very soon) I'll be able to see how problematic it is to wirelock though a 1" hole.

 

On this subject - did you hear about the gynaecologist who decorated his front hallway through the letter box.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

As previously mentioned somewhere Roger, I used Loctite 'Studloc' on the pin.... thats probably easier than wiring it in (but I did that too) but it might need your car inverting to make it run in the hole.... :)

 

john

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Neil,

belt and braces. The wire locking is logical to stop the screw falling out completely if it should undo.

The extra roll pin is sensible if you rely only on the original design for the taper pin/screw.

 

As mentioned previously I have bushed the end of the taper ensuring that it is firmly in double shear. I defy the little bugger to break.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, today was exciting. I needed to raise the car up so I could get under and sort out the fuel and brake pipes etc.

I made a monster ramp a few years ago and normally drive the car up it.

This in itself is exciting as when you are going up it you can't see where to stop and when half way up the whole thing rocks into the horizontal - quite brilliant really but guarantees to damage ones underpants.

 

Anyway, The TR4 has not got motive power and is too heavy to push. So Plan 'B' is to use a winch to draw the little devil up.

Alas there is nowhere to put the winch - plan 'B' looking dodgy. In the end I lash a fence post to the front of the ramp and bingo we are away.

The car slowly moved up the ramp. Sue was at the rear with a block behind the tyre just in case.

Then at the critical point the whole thing gently rotated and levelled out. I can now work under it to my hearts content.

 

I don't know if I mentioned but on the 1st of August I'm going to have my right hip updated to a new ceramic one. That means the whole of July is required to put the car together. Today the hospital admissions clerk called to ask if I wanted to go in next Monday - ahh, oohh, what to do.

I explained I have a mission. OK she said, how about Tuesday. Same problem says I.

How many people have turned down life threatening surgery to put their TR together. Some would say a new hip is not life threatening but have you seen the local hospital!!!

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger,

 

Get yourself repaired - the car will be there in the same condition later, whereas you are wearing out (aren't we all?). :unsure:

 

You know it makes sense - get the surgeon before his summer hols. B)

 

Mike

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mike,

your quite right normally I would have jumped at the offer of filling in a cancellation but I am geared up to finish this car to get the MOT before the tax runs out as I don't want the bother of getting a SORN.

Also not knowing what the cancelee was having done I could end of with my dodgy hip still there plus a bunnion removal!!

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Folks,

today was quite productive. The plan was to install new fuel pipes brake pipes etc whilst the car is up on its monster ramps.

Last year I bought the Automec fuel and brake pipe kits.

The fuel pipes went is quite easily and whilst under the car I had a good look at the chassis - all seemed solid and thickly coated in 'stuff'.

 

The old steel brake pipes looked in remarkably good condition I(again covered in 'stuff'). The only iffy bits were on therear wheels where the

pipe bends into the slave units. The 'stuff' had come off and a small amount of rust was visible. This was cleaned and re'stuff'ed.

 

The brake pipe from the master cylinder to the 4 way junction appeared a little short. Upon gazing through one of Bill Piggots books it was clear that the pipe should be short and take an 'as the crow flies' route to the union. This is not good (well, not on an aircraft).

Interestingly the previous owner also thought so as he used the rear near side brake pipe - apprx 4ft long!!! :blink:

However with this cut down to size and a new bell end swaged on I had a new run following the car contours in the engine bay.

 

The clutch had a similar bizarre twist. I hadn't got a clutch pipe however our intrepid previous owner had used the long brake pipe from front to rear.

Again it was far too long but, hacksaw, flaring tool and Autosol made a fine job.

 

So, the engine bay is starting to look the part.

 

Tomorrow I tackle the exhaust down pipe to centre box and perhaps the carbs. These were overhauled by Southern carbs and look really good.

 

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Greetings Peeps,

well the exhaust down pipe didn't put up much of a fight, it popped on quiet easily. However I'm not too impressed with the exhaust system in general. Two boxes squeezed into a tight space. Are two boxes really required.

 

I finished the clutch Hyd pipe. It is now neatly routed around the engine bay and finished off with a braided pipe into the slave.

 

I nearly fitted the carbs but am missing an insulator for the manifold.

 

Tomorrow we go for an MOT on the 4A. It was feeling neglected so I gave it a damn good wash (that'll teach it).

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Greetings Peeps,

well the exhaust down pipe didn't put up much of a fight, it popped on quiet easily. However I'm not too impressed with the exhaust system in general. Two boxes squeezed into a tight space. Are two boxes really required.

 

I finished the clutch Hyd pipe. It is now neatly routed around the engine bay and finished off with a braided pipe into the slave.

 

I nearly fitted the carbs but am missing an insulator for the manifold.

 

Tomorrow we go for an MOT on the 4A. It was feeling neglected so I gave it a damn good wash (that'll teach it).

 

Roger

 

 

 

The lawn mower has been on a promise for over a week now!

 

 

:ph34r: (There should be a smiley with a HALO, like the Saint!)

Edited by SuzanneH
Link to post
Share on other sites

Alec, you silly boy.

We are talking principles here.

I have two mowers. The pride and joy would have put Fred Dibnah in raptures (far beyound Sues abilities).

The other is a very cheap rotary job with one control (far beyond Sues abilities).

 

I do the lawn and Sue does the cooking, except when it's my turn and then we either eat out or have take away :D:D:P

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a poor day today - not a lot done.

Went off to the shops to buy some bits for the exhaust alas they do not fit my system.

I have a fairly standard exhaust box lay-out on the 4 but looking at it I feel it is back to front.

There is a large (front) box in a small space and a small (rear) box in a large space. If Triumph simply used two small boxes there would be plenty of room for all the bits and would probably fit better.

 

I took two wheels to the tyre shop this morning - one with a tyre and one without. All I wanted was a cheap tyre for the spare and four decent tyres to run on. 165x15 is fairly popular but no. The tyre man coud not find one. I would dearly love a set of Firestone F560's but they stopped production for the UK two years ago.

I though I had success when I had a look at the Halfords site - F560 at £56. Pop down to the shop, no chance. At least the man said he would look for something and call me back

I may end up using the 20 year old Pirelli's fitted at present.

 

One bit of success - the 4A passed its MOT yippee. Isn't it always nice when you see the chaps struggling over the fly off handbrake.

My man clearly is a handbrake expert no trouble. However I hjad the last laugh when he had to ask me 'where is the dip switch' :P:P

 

Tomorrow I may do something with the exhaust and get round to eventually fit the carbs.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

What about the lawn???

 

B)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.