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150BHP v 125BHP


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On 8/25/2016 at 9:11 PM, Guest ntc said:

Nope

+1 the difference is in the drive.

Volvo were the instigators of the J type overdrive, they did not like the wham bam of the A types engagement and they purchased many thousands of J type units in the region of over 1/2 a million units and they used it on their 3 litre V6 power units which had a lot more torque and power than a 2.5 PI and many of these units go back to ORS for recon with mega mileages in the hundreds of thousands. My J type lasted for 44 years before re-con due to the lay shaft starting to fail in the gear box.

Bruce.

PS: my J type has overdrive on second as well!!!!!

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5 hours ago, astontr6 said:

Hi John,

The A type overdrive was changed to a J type on Volvo's wishes as they were GKN's biggest customer, because they did not like the engagement of the A type, even though GKN-Laycock  modified the A type a number of times to try to improve the engagement, in fact nor did BL as it lead to too many drive train warranty claims. The J type engagement is based upon the slipping clutch method. Regarding power! Volvo used a 3 litre V6 engine with the J type which was a lot more powerful than the 2.5 CP engine! My J type lasted 44 years before it was reconditioned by ORS as they also did my gearbox because the lay shaft was on its way out, the usual fault with the TR gearbox, which they modified to a 3 bearing Stag type. The Stag gear box is the best  gearbox for a TR!

Bruce,

Bruce - couldn't agree more re a Stag box for a TR - got one for sale at the moment with a standard 25% J type OD on ebay,  plus one with a 28% ratio J type OD sitting in the garage.  All fully rebuilt by Mr Gearbox, PC (!!). And modified to have OD on 2nd as well.

If anyone is interested , please get in touch.

Cheers   Rich

Edited by rcreweread
omission
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  • 3 years later...
42 minutes ago, Parkeni said:

Hi, what do we think about a 1974 car with a CP Stage 2 modified engine in it? Is this going to be difficult to sell again if I buy it? 
 

Thoughts/comments most welcome. 

Cheers.

Nick

From a performance perspective it's now a better car, from a sales perspective you have alienated the prospective buyers who want originality. If you think you will enjoy the car buy it, you will be able to sell it on, it's just a question of finding the right buyer/price point alignment.

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On 6/15/2009 at 6:57 AM, 6pack said:

Hello all ..

 

After quite a few years I am hankering to go back to TR6 motoring .. My previous cars were a 1974 125BHP TR6 and an 1968 American TR250 .. I would very much like to know anyone's opinions of the driving difference between a UK 125 and a UK 150 BHP TR6 and also WHICH year did the detune take place.

I am in the market for a nice restored TR with all the bugs taken care of but I am not sure that some advertisers claims for 150 BHP performance are valid ( not from this forum I hasten to add )

 

Many thanks ..

The first thing you need to bear in mind is that the BL sales literature said 150BHP but it was not??? A figure of 137BHP was given in a motor magazine I saw years ago in the late 1970's. I have a 1973 CR TR6 which was modified by SAH the leading Triumph Tuner of the time and they said to me if I want 150 BHP. I would need to do the following: A gas flowed head, Cam shaft change and Extractor exhaust manifold. I went for this and it certainly liven up the performance of my car. The detuning took place on 1973 model CR cars.

Bruce

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As someone stated, not sure these cars have a real need to keep it original unless it’s pristine and never restored.  
 

Each to their own obviously but if all you want is a reliable, drivable car then do what you need to 

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On 6/15/2009 at 12:13 PM, jean said:

IMHO the most important to enjoy any TR is a good chassis and a proper suspension setup, rather important on IRS cars . Many 5 and 6s drive like a wet towel

Ask yourself: Why a lot of HP if you have to brake and stop before engaging a turn.

Go for the best car whatever the HP is. In the mean time 80% of all TR6's on the Continent are U.S. specification cars, with no complains from the owners

+1 went for the best chassis I could find then sorted the ride with poly bushes, followed by the engine, and then the gearbox. Although a UK CR, a Newman fast road cam, tidied up head, ports and throttle bodies plus a Phoenix exhaust and CVs and LSD at the back mean I’m somewhere near a CP with CR driveability. CP resale values are of course higher; but in reality I’m getting towards the driving experience I want, which is more important to me!

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On 8/7/2023 at 7:56 PM, Parkeni said:

Hi, what do we think about a 1974 car with a CP Stage 2 modified engine in it? Is this going to be difficult to sell again if I buy it? 
 

Thoughts/comments most welcome. 

Cheers.

Nick

Nick, I would wonder about provenence of the car as many buyers are looking for a strong tracable motor. My 73 CR has an owners ledger going back to 1981 (2nd owner) with every bit of work done as well as paperwork back to almost new. In addition, I also have a photo album that came with it showing before, during, and after photos of the complete car restoration so when time comes to resell, I've got a strong tale.

Now not all cars in the market may be so lucky,  but a previous 72 CR I almost bought 8 years ago the owner had 3 3' thick binders of everything back to the original BL order invoice. So modifications of course are to you the owner, but I would offer to have a think.

There's others here far smarter than I who've owned their cars far longer as well I continue to learn from so when / if I do a mod, it is consistent with others.

Just my tuppence worth, YMMV

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All, very grateful. I think Steve's hit the nail on the head, as others have pointed out that actually if selling on then provenance is key. But equally, I do see that having a car that drives brilliantly for what I need it for is also important.

I've seen values dip a bit recently, have you seen that as well?

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The throttle linkage of the CR cars was changed from the CP cars to provide a less snappy throttle response. However, unless perfectly set up the butterflies will only partially open. This can be fixed with a replacement linkage similar to the CP one and transforms the performance. 

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