Jump to content


calling all suspension experts


27 replies to this topic

#21 Guest_james67_*

Guest_james67_*
  • Guests

Posted 19 October 2007 - 06:00 PM

Hi James, I'd like to mention that in my replies I speak about the FRONT suuspension!


Yes got that

Yes Rudi
I am watching the topic Anti Roll Bar TR4 - Dimensions and looking foreword to the outcome of the then I will no which way to go. But I have just poly bush the whole car and it is brilliant
James

Edited by james67, 20 October 2007 - 09:59 AM.

  • 0

#22 PaulAnderson

PaulAnderson
  • TR Register Members
  • 273 posts
  • Location:Northumbria

Posted 13 March 2008 - 12:23 AM

Sorry for tagging onto this thread but my query is very much related.

I'm thinking of having four wheel alignment carried out on my TR4A IRS as it's never been checked properly since restoration. In fact I've not even been able to find a local garage who can check the front tracking due to the wire wheel knock on spinners getting in the way of their modern equipment.

My front chassis suspension turrets were repaired by the Northern TR Centre some years ago (a seven year restoration) - one turret had the classic twist as the strengthening brackets had not been fitted at the time and the car must have previously hit a kerb or similar. During the rebuild I replaced the same number of front suspension lower shims as had come out and in theory this may not have been appropriate as my car has very noticeable negative camber easily seen from a frontal view. I've read Revington's article 'Correct fitment of TR4A-6 front suspension upper wishbones' and have confirmed that mine are indeed installed correctly (not incorrectly as shown in a workshop manual).

During the rebuild I fitted different suspension springs and bushes. The front springs are TT4001 (with AVO TU284 dampers from Revington) and TT4212 rear springs and standard dampers. I had initially thought that both springs retained the standard height but note that the Moss catalogue
indicates that the front springs are actually slightly lowered (6.7" as against 6.75" originally).

At the time of chassis restoration (about 5 years ago) I did replace all of the bushes on the car with polyurethane except for some in the front suspension. This was after someone gave me advice that replacing all bushes would make it too hard and subject to noise. I think it was the bottom bushes that were left as rubber but unfortunately I cannot remember at the moment. Wish I'd done them all with hindsight.

I'm about to change the spring collars (top and bottom to all four springs) in polyurethane as I did not replace the original ones when rebuilding and I suspect they're probably hard by now.

The car is a standard road car. Overall I'm impressed with the handling (never having had an old car myself before) though it's a bit hard and clattery over the roadworks and potholes.

My question is, does anyone have any recommendations or corrections for the suspension settings from that published? The Triumph workshop manual states the following:
Toe in (front and rear for IRS) 0" to 1/16" (1.6mm)
Front wheel camber 0 degrees +/- half a degree.
IRS rear wheel camber one degree negative +/- half a degree.

Thanks,
Paul
  • 0

#23 potts4a

potts4a
  • TR Register Members
  • 413 posts
  • Location:Rochford Essex

Posted 16 March 2008 - 04:25 PM

Hi James, I have the following set up on my 4A

Front springs Moss TT4001 (about 1/2 ins lower)
Rear springs Moss TT4212 (also 1/2 ins lower)
Front shocks standard
Front anti roll bar - as shown in latest moss catalogue page 8
Rear - Konis using type 2 brackets,as shown in Moss Cat, TT3225TUV page 8, these have 3 point fixing, lower on bump stop bkt.
Superflex bushes in swinging arm.
S/Arm mounting bkts changed to give slight neg camber as shown in old TR Action
Front set to 0.75 neg camber.

Wheels are 60 spoke wires with std Firestone tyres on front

The car has been used like this for the past 4 years (4000miles/year) and the only change I have planned is 2 more Firestones when the vredestein 185 rear tyres wear down a bit more.

Hope this helps, Chris
  • 0
Posted Image Posted Image
Chris

#24 PaulAnderson

PaulAnderson
  • TR Register Members
  • 273 posts
  • Location:Northumbria

Posted 22 March 2008 - 09:31 AM

Just thought I'd add that I've had the four wheel alignment and tracking work completed by Willow Triumph, based near Darlington.

The angles before were inconsistent side to side but now it's all sorted.

Toe in (front and rear for IRS) should be 0" to 1/16" (1.6mm). It was up to 6mm but is now 1mm front and 1.5 rear.

Front wheel camber should be 0 degrees +/- half a degree. They were up to 2 degrees but are now 0.75 degrees
IRS rear wheel camber should be one degree negative +/- half a degree and have not needed to be touched at one degree.

Overall I'm delighted with the work though it's hard to tell the difference that this setting has made - it was mostly motorway on the way home and unfortunately we had sleet yesterday and snow forecast for the next couple of days so a decent drive on country roads will have to wait.

Paul
  • 0

#25 graeme

graeme
  • TR Register Members
  • 1305 posts
  • Location:Nanaimo, Beautiful British Columbia
  • Cars Owned::Triumph TRs, Steam engines, Modelling.

Posted 22 March 2008 - 10:51 AM

Just thought I'd add that I've had the four wheel alignment and tracking work completed by Willow Triumph, based near Darlington.

Paul


Paul,

I hope you don't mind me asking, but what was the approx. cost for this alignment work and do they use laser equipment. You can PM me if you don't want to post on here.

Thanks

Graeme
  • 0

Graeme Cook

Overseas (Ex Cleveland Group member)

Vice Chair, Old English Car Club http://oecc.ca/cib/

1966 New White TR4A

1968 New White TR250 (waiting restoration)

1969 Signal Red TR6 (Current project)

 

TR6-010_zps220bb96c.jpg


#26 potts4a

potts4a
  • TR Register Members
  • 413 posts
  • Location:Rochford Essex

Posted 23 March 2008 - 11:32 AM

Hi again, further to my comment on setting the rear with some negative camber this certainly improves the handling which is probably why it was introduced on the TR6. There is some detail on this on the "Technicalities CD". At least starting off with a little neg cam means that going through dips when the rear of the car rises you don't end up with positive cam which together with lack of rear toe in can result in the back of the car steering its self.

Chris

Posted Image
  • 0
Posted Image Posted Image
Chris

#27 Guest_james67_*

Guest_james67_*
  • Guests

Posted 30 March 2008 - 07:55 PM

Hi Chris
Just seen the photo of your car it look grate and I am learning a lot from this thread

Regards James :rolleyes:
  • 0

#28 North London Mike

North London Mike
  • TR Register Members
  • 1004 posts
  • Location:North London
  • Cars Owned::Classic 'works' cars, TR4's, any modified TRs/ cars, touring, travel, beer, video & photography, snow skiing, Si-Fi

Posted 30 March 2008 - 09:04 PM

Just my two tup'pence worth

I went with standard ride height for speed bumps, French D roads and campsites. I did uprate the spring 20% though and had the rear lever arms uprated.

The main point is to retain the ride height, after years of losing exhausts in Healey's I value it above diamonds :lol:
  • 0

Regards to all

Mike

TR Register member
NLG ( North London Group) committee member
1962 TR4 Works Rep/ Track Day car

1974 Triumph 2000, 2.5 Mk2 (1/3rd) TEAM MOBY: RBRR/10CR car

Previous toys: S1, S2 & S3 4.2 XJ6's, Daimler V12 S2, XJS V12 S1,

Jaguar 420, TR7 coupe, MGs, Healey Frogeye, Ford Capri 3.0GLX (S3)
Track.jpg


 




Reply to this topic



  


0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users